Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree, the standard coils would be the weak link but not to a major degree.

This being said the coils are not too expensive anyway and worth the expense if your in a high HP bracket, otherwise I don't think that its worth it.

Mercury Outboard coils are @$75.00 each x 6 = $450 plus leads, brackets and other installation costs.

Maybe the money could be spent on mods to take advantage of the extra spark, ie; a tune which I beleive will give an overall better result.

If budget allows - get everything!

What was the actual part number of the mercury outboard coils you where looking at?

I'll see what i can do to track down some of these - if i purchase lets say 10 of them or something then hopefully we could get some kind of discount.

Here is a picture of the Mercury Outboard Coil

Mercury_Outboard_CoilF69858.jpg

Part No: 339-832757A4

Best Price I could get were @29.00 US from the states.

Just got confirmation on shipping charges and convertered it to AU

AU$40.00 each

AU$94.00 shipping for 6 coils

Total: $334.00

Edited by WetGTR

i'm quite interested. so with the 6 mecury coils, you just need the msd DIS 4 to run them? I'll be very interested to see if it works with a PFC.

You will have to find out if the PFC has output drivers to run the MSD Unit.

I have also heard that you shouldn't run the Mercury Coils from a MSD DIS-4, can't take it and blows up. Something about the coils having almost no resisstance.

WETGTR, With the autronic SMC and the CDi you run three outputs from the computer into the CDi then run coils like the 4AGZE style with two leads from each coil using three outputs from the CDI (three 4A coils equals six cylinders work of spark plugs) and you dont have to run in a waste spark mode.

WETGTR, With the autronic SMC and the CDi you run three outputs from the computer into the CDi then run coils like the 4AGZE style with two leads from each coil using three outputs from the CDI (three 4A coils equals six cylinders work of spark plugs) and you dont have to run in a waste spark mode.

The 3 output drivers from the Autronics will give you no other choice then to run wasted spark. The only other way would be to replace the ECU with something that has 6 output drivers and a CDI unit that has 6 input drivers.

It's not the coils that will make any difference, it's the ECU & CDI unit. The coils are just the dumb unit and spark when told to by the CDI.

Note: the MSD DIS-4 is only a 4 driver unit so on a 6 cylinder car you can only use 3 drivers which means you'll be runing the wasted spark setup. The Autronics CDI has only 4 drivers aswell.

I know the Motec ECU and CDI's run 6 input & 6 output drivers.

What about the the HKS twin spark thingy dose that need output drivers to run the Unit.

They work off DLI for correct timing and sequence for spark plug control . The DLI system is integrated into your ECU or you have a dwell board controlling igition. The outputs I was speaking of are only for CDI type of igition.

Basically their are 2 types of systems out there:

1. DLI

2. CDI

from what I know anyway.

The HKS DLI will work aswell but I think the benefits of CDI are work it eg: higher spark energy, longer duration spark, multi spark.

You will have to find out if the PFC has output drivers to run the MSD Unit.

I have also heard that you shouldn't run the Mercury Coils from a MSD DIS-4, can't take it and blows up. Something about the coils having almost no resisstance.

What blows up the MSD or the mercury coils?

Hmmm...

So what coils can you use on the MSD without something going bang? lol

What blows up the MSD or the mercury coils?

Hmmm...

So what coils can you use on the MSD without something going bang? lol

The MSD CDI fails.

Check this link from the EFI UNI

http://efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31...75c8a102322abca

Checkout this link for some good information regarding CDI and other related spark information.

http://efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39...hlight=msd+dis4

You will still run waste spark with the 4agze coils but only on one cylinder. Its better than running one or 2 coils for the whole system, nothing wrong with waste spark on a drag circuit or high hp application any way as you should be checking the plugs all the time!!!

You will still run waste spark with the 4agze coils but only on one cylinder. Its better than running one or 2 coils for the whole system, nothing wrong with waste spark on a drag circuit or high hp application any way as you should be checking the plugs all the time!!!

I agree with what your saying. I beleive a good setup would be to have a single coil for each spark plug so say a 6 coil setup for a 6 cylinder car.

I think you have to think this through in regards to CDI as I don't know if all ECU's have the output drivers to run this type of setup. Because CDI works differently then Inductive systems.

I know that with the Autronics you have to add in a dwell board just so it can work with inductive systems which skylines have. You then have to go into the ECU's software and change the +ve trigger to -ve trigger.

Not too hard but not as simple as just remove the ignitor, plug in a CDI and on the way you go.

Another thing about CDI is they are an invertor type unit which transforms 12V to 450V-500V so its going to get hot. A quality item will last.

Check to see which coils will work well for the CDI you wish to use.

Hmmm...

So what coils can you use on the MSD without something going bang? lol

Not sure with the MSD but maybe the Bosch coil or the MSD Coils should do the trick but you have to check on this.

I have the bosch Part no if you need it @$44.00 each and has been highly recommended. Available at most bosch outlets as they are used on Fords.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...