Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

i finally took my hicas out last weekend, took all the hosing, and units out and plumbed the hose back to the breater hose in the front where the 4ws actuator was, works like a dream, just have to take the hicas bulb out of the dash now...

I'm pretty keen to do this, just one question though. Is it better to lock the back up with a lock bar, or with the washers (in weight saving, and strength). I'm guessing that the washers will be fine, just wanted to double check though.

I found a HICAS ECU pinout, and wire 20 is the warning lamp, so if you cut that, it should save pulling the dash out.

Edited by sav man
  • 3 weeks later...
I'm pretty keen to do this, just one question though. Is it better to lock the back up with a lock bar, or with the washers (in weight saving, and strength). I'm guessing that the washers will be fine, just wanted to double check though.

I found a HICAS ECU pinout, and wire 20 is the warning lamp, so if you cut that, it should save pulling the dash out.

Any chance you could share that pinout?

I really wouldn't mind having a good look at that.

  • 2 weeks later...
OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

I am confused. My lines have small hose for hose #1 , and large hose for hose #2 ....how are you supposed to join them with a simple 150mm long hose? I must have the wrong line, but I have followed the directions right as far as I know? It looks to me that #2 is high pressure...there is no-where to attach a normal rubber hose without making a fitting ?

If it is the right one, I have no idea how I am supposed to get the hose off there with the metal clamps.

The top of my engine bay looks like the picture posted by meep.

Picture1 - http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

The underside looks like this

Picture 2

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas.jpg

I could disconnet it under the car, then run a longer hose up, and use a fitting at the bottom...but this doesn't seem right based on what SydneyKid is saying?

I am worried I am about to rip out the wrong hose. either that or the wrong place, cause i can't see it being a 10 minute job like SK made said

Is the line in red the right place to put the link?

Picture 3

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas1.jpg

post-15054-1148264202.jpg

post-15054-1148264216.jpg

post-15054-1148264225.jpg

Edited by eXc
I am confused. My lines have small hose for hose #1 , and large hose for hose #2 ....how are you supposed to join them with a simple 150mm long hose? I must have the wrong line, but I have followed the directions right as far as I know? It looks to me that #2 is high pressure...there is no-where to attach a normal rubber hose without making a fitting ?

If it is the right one, I have no idea how I am supposed to get the hose off there with the metal clamps.

The top of my engine bay looks like the picture posted by meep.

Picture1 - http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

The underside looks like this

Picture 2

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas.jpg

I could disconnet it under the car, then run a longer hose up, and use a fitting at the bottom...but this doesn't seem right based on what SydneyKid is saying?

I am worried I am about to rip out the wrong hose. either that or the wrong place, cause i can't see it being a 10 minute job like SK made said

Is the line in red the right place to put the link?

Picture 3

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas1.jpg

Let’s get the terminology right first then move onto what to do.;

1. High pressure hoses DO NOT HAVE CLAMPS, they have compression fittings. So any hose with a compression fitting on it is NOT low pressure.

2. Low pressure hoses HAVE CLAMPS.

3. What you are doing is joining 2 low pressure pieces of (standard) pipework with a piece of (aftermarket) rubber hose that has a clamp at each end to hold the (aftermarket) hose onto the (standard) pipework.

4. The fluid supply and return to the power steering cooler is LOW PRESSURE, so it has clamps.

5. Follow the power steering cooler (standard) pipework and (standard) hoses and note where the (standard) pipework joins to the (standard) rubber hoses. Note that there is both a supply from and a return to the power steering cooler, the return is LOW PRESSURE.

6. Go to the power steering reservoir and follow the (standard) pipework for the return of the fluid from the rear solenoids. The standard pipework goes under the engine, clipped to the subframe.

7. Join the output of the power steering cooler (standard) pipework to the (standard) pipework where it pokes up from the subframe. It needs around 100 to 150 mm piece of aftermarket rubber hose and 2 clamps.

Sorry I can not put up a picture, so please don’t ask.. My own R32GTS does not have the pipework in it at the moment as I am changing to a larger power steering cooler.

Hopefully that is of some help.

:thumbsup: Cheers :wave:

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
×
×
  • Create New...