Removing Hicas On R32 Gtr

[shanef]

Alrite i finally got round to taking some pics. The line in RED is the new bit of hose you need to put in. Its important that u got some oil resistant hose, and it needs to be big enough to slide over the green steel pipes. I also took a shot front on to show the 'cooling loop'.

If theres any more questions, ask away

[ali-turko]

so after doing what u have marked in the red can i then remove everything that has something to do with hicas

[salad]

[shanef]

so after doing what u have marked in the red can i then remove everything that has something to do with hicas

certainly can (although ive left the ecu in)

[ali-turko]

thx buddy could u please lish every part i need to buy, i.e hose, clamp ect.. so i can buy it b4 i start 2morow, also would be alrite if u PMed ur number just incase i get stuck?

[boomtheroom]

ok, there is a smaller powersteer unit ,in place of the factory on with 2 ribs for the belt,all other hoses have benn removed including the hicas pumps,and computer there is one hose coming from somewhere under the plenium

[boomtheroom]

so why would the steering b so hard?

[West]

Why can't somebody do a tutorial in the DIY section and make it stickies with plenty of photos for us noobs .

[boomtheroom]

ok , lock bar in back all power steer lines up front have been removed, and smaller power steering pump is in old ones place ,any ideas as 2 why the steering would b so hard? anyone done this type of conversion got any ideas?

[boomtheroom]

ok found the problem, the solonoid the opens to control the powersteer isnt opening at low speed,applied 12v to it and it works perfectly,so its either not connected,to the controller or the controller is buggered, does the p/s run off the hicas computer as well or a seperate controller?

[boomtheroom]

btw are the hicas computers exactly the same in athe r32 gtr and gtst,s?

[NRB]

What would happen if one removed the rear steering rack with the lines that run into the "junction box" (I've got no idea what to call it!) and simply put 2 bolts into the holes that the lines came out of?

The power steering pump rear rotor would fail

cheers

I think this might have finally happened... now getting a grating sound kind of like honing metal on a lathe or drilling stainless. Time for a replacement and bypass loop hose.

[robbieraver]

ok i know we have been over this 400 times already tonite but with reading sooooooo many slightly different ways, i just want to know if this a correct way in the pics below.....

thanks for your imput.

i have been reading this over and over, whats left of my little brain is gettting confuzed.

[RS581]

What I did with my ps pump was ...

As it is modular, removed the rear section off it , shortened the main shaft and re hardened it and put it all back together with the entire rear section removed ...

Another really easy solution is to simply remove the hub and vanes from the rear part ...

Seemed easier than adapting another pump to me ...

[salad]

Have a look through here, just ask if you're still a bit confused

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/locking...13-t185697.html

It's all well and good to remove the rear powersteering pump rotor, but if you keep it on, it does make plumbing in a p/s cooler a bit easier. And keeps the functionality of the stock cooler

[BHDave]

robbie,

the way it's show in the pics is the easiest way to remove the hicas from the loop. Salads write up on NS (thats he's linked above) covers it all aswell.

Once you remove the fittings from the hicas solenoid in the engine bay it becomes pretty obvious which hoses have to be joined up as there are only 2 loose ones once everything else is removed.

[robbieraver]

robbie,

the way it's show in the pics is the easiest way to remove the hicas from the loop. Salads write up on NS (thats he's linked above) covers it all aswell.

Once you remove the fittings from the hicas solenoid in the engine bay it becomes pretty obvious which hoses have to be joined up as there are only 2 loose ones once everything else is removed.

thanks BHdave,

it was a long day yesterday, i went and looked in the engine bay(made easyer with no motor in it) this morning and yes its very easy, i was just being lasy and trying to work it out without looking in the bay and trying to work it out using the diagrams....

thanks for the advice..

[predator]

Bump as this is a good thread.. and the ns link is probably the best btw.. Just did this on my GTS-t over the weekend.. Seems to be ok, but needs a wheel alignment badly now so bit hard to tell the final result.

Here are a bunch of pics I took to help anybody along, and everybody seems to suck at the pictures (macro-focus button people!). Note that this is an R32 GTS-T, which obviously will look a bit different to the GTR, but the process will be the same.

My tips are, make sure you remove the battery, use a drip tray and you can get away with not making any mess at all, and remove the piping near the gearbox slave cylinder first by undoing the 2x pipes where they have a screw point. Remove back up to there, let fluid drain out, then remove front part of system. Some people seem to have chopped the return way back near the power steering pump - not quite sure why you'd want to do that, as to me metal pipe > rubber hose.. and you can just then use a shorter piece of hose up near the battery end, which can easily be replaced if it perishes later on.

I like the fact that there is just less crap on the car now, and as you can see there is a lot of crap in the system. Also makes it much easier to reach the oil filter and a few other things too. Weight is around 15kg saved.

It is actually fairly time consuming. I'd set aside a full day unless you have done it before.

[salad]

Much better photos than mine. Do you mind if I stick em in my guide?

[predator]

go for it.. actually I just gotta fix that one with the tierod.. as it says 12mm, and now I remember, its 17mm..