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hey all

seeing as though the race that stops the nation wassnt till this afternoon. i was bored.

im getting a new boost controller soon, but i wanted to play with the one currently in my car, see the affects, if my new one will be any better and what not.

the boost controller i have now is a old skool turbosmart duel stage one, but the circut to switch to the bigger valve doesnt seem to work (cant be botherd fixing it, no circuit, broken switch) and the 'always on' side doesnt allow much boost. i unscrewd the 'always on' valve and according to my boost gauge, it maxed out at .8 bar ish and min was around .3bar ish

upuntill today ive been running .5 bar, and the car has an xhaust, fmic and a turbo smart type 3 (plumback) bov.

i got over the boosting and put it all back to normal (well .4bar) except now my car stalls when ever you rev it, coming off the accelerator. and it takes a while to get back to idle, nearly stalling each time

- i thought maybe my turbo is blown (hope not!)

- maybe its the bov ( but i thought plumback never had the atmospheric issues, altho problem is much like having an atmosphric bov!!)

- the boost controller is broke, or the boost isnt set right (didnt think it would be too much of a problem, as it stalls even when above .5bar)

- when i turn the a/c on, it doesnt stall. wel it helps keepin the revs up)

have any of you experienced this?? or know whats going on with my car??

any help would be much appreciated!!

- Dave -

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Take off the AAC valve and clean it. It is located towards the firewall of the plenum (top of the inlet manifold). Should be held in place by 4 10mm bolts. Be careful to not break the gasket when removing but don't be too stressed if you do. Get your hands on a can of Carby clean and spray that mo fo until the can is empty. Get all the crap out (black shit). Usually what happens is they get a little gummed up with soot and it causes them to operate in a less than effective manner. Don't try to remove the valve itself, held in by two screws unless you have a good screwdriver or impact driver of some sort otherwise you will damage the screw heads. Once clean, slap it back on and bob's your aunty. If you broke the gasket upon removal, get some locktight 518 flange sealant(comes in a red tube and is gooey to touch) and use the smallest amount to just cover the area you wanna seal. Be careful not to put too much on otherwise you will actually block the hole that requires air to pass.

It is also possible that by changing boost setting you have introduced a vacuum leak of some sort, in some unknown location but usually it will only drop in idle for a second then just idle high from then on. I doubt this is your problem.

Give the first one a go and see how you come up. Should only cost you about $15 all up and should be done regularly anyway.

Also, if you have any carby clean spare you can use it to clean the throttle body (where the butterfly is) They can also get a build up of gunk around the edge causing your car to konk out.

Very dirty air filter will also cause stalling problems so check to make sure it is clean.

hey

havn't had time to muck around with it, coz i got exams round this time. took the car for a drive, still pretty pissed with it!

its a bitch to drive without the power. it has virtually no boost after 100kph and the car stops pulling in 4th gear at 4000rpm ish. boost before that is petty.

my bov makes a totally different noise, its more a woooosh then the ppsssshhiii it used to be. would that be a sign of a leak? or is my turbo dead?

i got a new boost controller today, and i poped it on. it does a better job than my last one, more responsive and smoother. my car nearly has a chance to beat a commo now.

thanks for the help, 'elite forse' ? ill give your first idea a go when i get the time, and ill clean my filter, my roads dont do it any favor.

cheers

Edited by hijaked

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