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:) nah dont know what i'll be doin... im meant to be working on sunday.... but its my birthday so likeliness of that happening is about as big as me getting a diablo for my next car :) not that id want one... id sell it and buy a 34 GTR Vspec lol

Nothing wrong with starting sh*t and sitting back and watching an all out brawl. :lol:

The boys here wanted to do GOR but don't think can be done on daturday cause of time limitations. Nothing's set yet cause still waiting on a few but all should be set by the 16th feb when we all discuss at the track day.

I'll keep you boys informed on what's going on.

The other guys are flying in so they're gonna be there on Friday. I'm gonna drive down so I should be there on Thursday night. Friday I'm gonna head into the city and stay there and go to the gp all 3 days. If you guys can take Monday off then it's all good for the GOR. If not then we can meet up for a few drinks.




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    • Ohh even easier.   Go dial up 700rpm on the hand controller. Rip off the TPS plug, wait till the idle drops and then adjust the IACV screw so it's just a tad below the target on the hand controller (say 650rpm), plug the TPS back in and idle will climb back to target. Done.
    • Hey Sleepergm, I love your inlet piping, do u mind sharing who did the work, please? cheers, Ian
    • Yeah, you want the IACV to be running at around 30 "units", variously called "steps" or "duty cycle" depending on the person. That gives it room to go lower if need be and higher ditto.
    • Ah right that makes sense.
    • The RPM is just a target, the ECU will adjust things to try and hit that target but it's by no means guaranteed. If the IACV duty cycle is 0 or something like that and it's actually closing up fully then the idle is as low as it can physically go without reducing ignition timing. The problem can be something like the cold start valve in the IACV not closing fully, worn throttle shaft seals, torn rubber diaphragm in the brake booster allowing unmetered air, etc. 
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