Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was having a bit of fun with my fren in princess hwy. When i shifted to 2nd gear and rev around 6500rpm my engine suddenly juz lag on me..... How should i say it.... The feeling was like the same feeling when u release ur clutch too early and u get the choke. But it was on 6500rpm and the car is around 90km/h.

Is this wat they call PING? or my piston ring is f*ked? Anyone got the same experience before? Should i send my car to a mechanic? Can they detect anything without tearing the engine block apart ??

Help will be really appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/
Share on other sites

Pinging is also known as knocking basically its an uncontrolled detonation.

When your spark plug fires it has a controlled/smooth burn of the petrol but when its really hot per say then the fuel will ignite before the flame from the spark can get to it, combusting suddenly before the optimum moment aka the Power Stroke.

This uncontrolled detonation creates a shockwave which reverberates in the chamber creating a "Pinging" Sound. The Pinging sound is distinctly a metallic sort of pinging sound.

And thats what Pinging is :P

If you want to check if your Piston rings are f**ked do a compression test dry & wet obviously. If you get two totally differnt results on a cylinder from the Dry compared to the wet, then your rings could possibly be screwed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1685031
Share on other sites

I would recommend firstly removing the spark plugs and having a look at the electrode. The electrode should be brown to greyish white in colour and should show no signs of wear. If all is well there then my best guess without testing the car would be that your coil packs may be showing signs of failure. If the electrode is warn in any way it would suggest possible detonation.

The sound of detonation (Pinging) is very distinctive and my best description would be filling a tin can with marbles then shaking it like crazy. But then add exhaust, road noise and sound deadening and I am sure you get the idea. If this is the case it’s time for a tune and possible fuel system upgrades.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1685157
Share on other sites

My car is running fine now.

jmac - My car is running with standard ECU.

paulr33 - Boost gauge still showing that it on 0.5 bar when rev. So probably not the turbo problem.

By the way, do u think shifting gear around 6500 RPM is appropriate. I mean it is too early or push the engine too hard oledi. Juz want to be on the safe side.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1687961
Share on other sites

it just sounds like you had a AFM cut.

same as when you turn the boost up enough that the AFM can't measure the air coming in fast enough and you get a engine cut sort of thing.

where the accelaration stops instantly for a split second and the whole car jerks.

that's what probably happened.

I doubt you broke anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1689231
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
    • Nah, I definitely do that kind of stuff with my car. I do drive it around as a daily! It's just that mindset about building a car to actually still use/retain it's function as a car is rare. If you modify your car into a weekender, IMO you've ruined 5/7ths of the fun. It should remain fun to do daily errands in.
×
×
  • Create New...