Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Considering the fact that you're not allowed to modify your engine performance in any way, there aren't any methods that are legal for you.

A better, and legal, way to reduce the time it takes you to get from A to B is to learn how to f**king drive first. Walk before you run, dude.

Edited by scathing
wats the best way to get power in non turbo  r33

if your willing to pull the engine out , put a rb30 bottm end under it and use the rb25de pistons ( give 10.5 - 1 compression ) or get block decked to take it up to 11.0-1 , about the limit for premium unleaded .

a set of cams

an after market ecu or just an apexi safc 2

rb25det injectors 370 cc as against stock 270 cc

extractors with 2 1/4 " or 2 1/2" exhaust

cold air intake

dyno tune

fark u know some good stuff bout skylines

wat bout extractors

I dotn like your tone (if intended sound sarcastic or not).

If some one bother to answer your noob quesion at least thank them, dont reply with 'F' words.

as above, do SEARCH!!!

as for your mods DO A SEARCH!!!

cheers

Mod

wats the best way to get power in non turbo  r33

dont bother, ur wasting other peoples time trying to explain to u how its not worth it and wasting ur own time trying to prove otherwise

just as scathing said: learn to drive, earn more money, and get a turbo model

dont bother, ur wasting other peoples time trying to explain to u how its not worth it and wasting ur own time trying to prove otherwise

just as scathing said: learn to drive, earn more money, and get a turbo model

The guy's a new P plater (or otherwise he'd apparently have a GTSt with a "big blower" :) ) so he's not allowed to modify it. If he didn't care about remaining legal, he would have just lived his life-long dream of owning a car that makes offensive noises for the sake of making noise.

ey, what do ya mean by get the block decked??? n how much does this kinda engine work cost?? how hard is it to change the bottom end over to an rb30??? n is it really worth it?? do you have any ideas what kinda figures the engine could pull??

ey, what do ya mean by get the block decked??? n how much does this kinda engine work cost?? how hard is it to change the bottom end over to an rb30??? n is it really worth it?? do you have any ideas what kinda figures the engine could pull??

block the deck ie. shave the block, in order to raise the compression.

the price will depend on how deep your pocket is and how much of the work you do yourself.

changing the bottom end is swapping the block - how hard it is depends on what you do, what head you decide to use and what you want to incorporate into it.

you can do a basic build with stock parts and balanced bits, or you can go all out with lightweight pistons, knifebladed crank, shotpeend rods, etc etc etc.... and can be anything up to 5k+

then you'll need an aftermarket ecu, or piggyback, tune, maybe want to consider a brake upgrade.

the key to NA engines is high revs (ie. formula1 and ~18000 rpm) so you'd be looking at fixing the harmonic issues with RB30s (engine cradle) and around 9000 rpm, again depending on your wallet. and also high compression.

advantages are: linear power in the rev range, and a torquey mofo with 3L bottom end, driveability.

in a nut shell its worth is your personal opinion. are you looking at power:money, or uniqueness:money, or 1/4time:money, fuel:money, etc. guestimate would be around from anywhere 170rwkw~200rwkw, even more depending on how far you'd like to go.

i'll be looking at this conversion in future if uni fees decide to be friendly with me - so MAYBE expect a worked NA in future.

cheers

eug

hmmm what i always say is it comes to driving, i know a fair few guyz with r33 and r32 and 180's and i know most of them dont know how to launch at all, if you perfect your driving in your NA it wouldnt suprize me if you stayed equal or even beat them! also dont put a POD unless you use some sort of cold air induction or heat sheild coz it will make it worse.

and exhaust... thats about it, but if you really want to gain a lil KW, maybe cams and upgrade fuel system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...