Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Who is running the stock GTT turbo at this sort of boost?

How long have you been running it?

I got my GTT tuned recently and they tuned it with this boost. I figure I can always drop it down a bit but it might mess around with my tune?

I would probably just leave it up at what it is, if its reasonably safe.

Edited by noise
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93394-gtt-stock-turbo-at-13-14psi-all-day/
Share on other sites

I deliberately tried one at 12 psi, lasted 4 laps (1 warm up and 3 fast) at Oran.

Ben's lasted 5 laps at Wakefield at 12 psi.

I warned a guy running 12 psi that it would happen to him.

He reckoned it wouldn't 'cause he never drives on the circuit

His got his ceramic in the cat disease driving hard up the hill from the Mooney Mooney bridge on the F3.

Cost him a new turbo and a bottle of JD (he lost the bet :rolleyes: ).

tick....tick......tick

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

Uh, this might sound like a really odd question.

But if you blew your exhaust turbine wheel pretty bad, so that it wouldnt spin the compressor any more. Then effectivly, the car will always be in VAC, will the ECU still be able to run the car correctly at say 5000 when it would normally be in +ve pressure?

I can get it at 5000 in vac, just doing down a hill in second. But... i dont know if thats the same?

Essentially, if turbo breaks, can the car still run/be driven normally?

ALSO, does the cat get damaged much when blade peices go into it?

Edited by AlexCim
Uh, this might sound like a really odd question.

But if you blew your exhaust turbine wheel pretty bad, so that it wouldnt spin the compressor any more. Then effectivly, the car will always be in VAC, will the ECU still be able to run the car correctly at say 5000 when it would normally be in +ve pressure?

I can get it at 5000 in vac, just doing down a hill in second. But... i dont know if thats the same?

Essentially, if turbo breaks, can the car still run/be driven normally?

ALSO, does the cat get damaged much when blade peices go into it?

In the examples above, all 3 guys drove their car home without a problem.

:rolleyes: cheers :P

Yeah, my compressor wheel still spins with the air going through it, but it's rubbing on the housing, and it squeels like a banshee!

Still drives though. Just doesn't do it in any sort of hurry!

Is the R34 turbo weaker than the R33? I was going to get my dyno tune (on my 33) done at 12psi so atleast the tune would be good up to there..then back it off to 10psi for most use. Maybe I'll go back to 10psi then too be safe as maybe on the dyno at 12psi the turbo will blow up :rolleyes:

Thanks for all the replies guys.

The reason I ask is because a friend of mine ran a stock r33 turbo for 6 months on about 15psi with no problems at all.

And I have spoken to a few people around the place who run them on about 13-14 daily with no problems.

But you certainly cant ignore the broken turbos in this thread.

If my car is tuned for 14 will it run badly if i drop it down to 10 with my avcr? I might run it on 10 for daily and pop it back up on weekends... haha

there's another factor to consider.

14 psi on a stock computer ain't as much as a problem as 14 psi on a PFC running timing and 12.0 AFR.

Lots of timing and lean ratios, = HOT gas.

The ceramic turbine gets too hot which makes it delaminate from the shaft.

Hence, cooler exhaust gas, less chance of blowing turbo.

Not likely I wouldn't think on a single turbo.

When you blow the wheel off, the are normally at WOT and by the time the thing blows and the you realise, the thing is already embedded in your cat!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
    • No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.
    • For any loom connector that has an obvious release that resists pushing far enough to unclip, just spray some silicone lube into it. You might also benefit from using a bent screwdriver or small pick to push in the right place at the right angle.
    • Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.  
×
×
  • Create New...