Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Sorry if this is a repost but I couldnt find another thread about it. When I was vacuuming under the seats last weekend I found a black cable sticking out through the floor under the driver's seat and going to somewhere to the centre console near the gearstick.

Is this common on all R33s? And anyone know off the top of their head what it is?

If noone knows I'll take a photo when I get home

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93582-cable-under-the-drivers-seat/
Share on other sites

yeh, r32 has that on factory belts... if you don't have them buckled in, they light up. When you replace them for complicance, the cables are useless..

either that or spare connection for stacker when an option.

Ive heard that it is some sort of sensor for the seatbelts that is either removed during compliance or is only used on airbag-equipped cars.

Got it on my s1 an it's got no airbag :(

========================================

as others have stated, I just assumed it was the seat belt sensor that lights up the little light in the dash cluster to 'remind' you to put the seat belt on.

Predator you mentioned something like a spare connection for a stacker, I still have my 6 stacker in the boot. Could you explain for me why a spare connector would be needed coming from the floor on the drivers side?

  • 2 months later...

I just bought my first skyline (R33 GTS) last week, and when giving it a vacuum i too found these connectors under both of the seats. The one under the driver's side has 4 wires, the passenger one only has two.

Well...being slighly the fiddler...hmmm...well...maybe more than slightly...anyway... i decided to see if it was indeed a seatbelt light. I got a paperclip and shoted out the two pins on the passenger connector, and watched the dash... to my surprise there was no light that lit up, but whenever the pins are shorted, there is a clunking noise in the door pillar (where the seatbelt comes out). When the pins are un-shorted, there is another clunking (release of some sort).

After some experimenting, I found the correct two pins on the driver's side to make the 'clunk' on that side too.

Someone somewhere mentioned that they were seatbelt pre-tensioners, so that once the seatbelt was plugged in it would lock it off at the reel end. As far as i can tell though, even when the pins are shorted the seatbelt seems to move as per usual, not tighter or looser than normal. Is it possible that the solenoid is disconnected when the Australian Seatbelts are put in for compliance? I would have thought they would have idsconnected the whole lot though...hmmm...

If anyone knows anything about this, please let me know!

Edited by Samon
  • 1 month later...

Okay, a little more information on the topic...

I had the trim that is over the seatbelt reel off the other day, and thought i'd investigate a little further. There are two wires going into the seatbelt reel thingy, some sort of solenoid, and yes, shorting the pins out does make a clunk in the reel. It kinda feels like it is easier to pull out when it is shorted out, but i can't really tell... at any rate they dont 'lock it off' or anytihng, so it still beats me as to what they actaully do! :P

Samon,

I can have a guess....

Without shorting try yanking fast on the seatbelt and maybe it doesnt lock/grab...

Short it and then yank fast and maybe it does....

That's just my guess tho! LoL

.....Coz isnt there something with the Soarer's that if the cars not ON -or- seat belt plugged in that you could yank it and it wont lock... Its ment to be some sort of creature comfort thing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
    • Hi. Which coilpacks can i use in my engine? I looked at the Splitfire but the closest "match" i found was SP-DIS-008 but even that they do not show RB20DE NEO so iam not 100% sure. Or maybe different one which will 100% work? I saw many on ebay but they are some cheap "strange" ones. What about Yellow Jackets? Many thanks 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...