Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Location: Melbourne (outer east)

Item Condition: all in reasonably good nick

Reason for Selling: need space and $$$

Price and Payment Conditions: pickup or i'll post if payment is made in advance

Contact Details: reply or PM here

Have the following parts:

R34 NA 5 speed manual gearbox $500

R33 GTS25t bits:

standard intercooler $50

black front guards $150 each

steering rack and crossmember $70

front radius rods with red nolathane bushes $40 pair

RS*R front springs and struts $120 pair

power steering pump $15

brake booster and master cylinder $60

Heater core $80

Air conditioner core $25

Blower motor $20

Instrument cluster with 64,000km $100

Dashboard garnish that goes around radio, HVAC, air vents, from centre all the way over to the drivers side $100

Most other plastics around the dashboard except the dash itself - make an offer

Dont have the radio bracket :D

I'm going to brisbane around 20th december so I'll be able to drive stuff up if needed.

Cheers

Edited by Bozz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93770-r34-na-5spd-gearbox-r33-parts/
Share on other sites

what sort of strength is in those n/a R34 boxes? presumably similar to the RB20DET box i would imagine?

p.s. any chance you're willing to do the wiring for an RB25/30 into VL while you're up in brisbane? was reading some of your posts on PF and saw you did this kind of stuff regularly that's all.

what sort of strength is in those n/a R34 boxes? presumably similar to the RB20DET box i would imagine?

p.s. any chance you're willing to do the wiring for an RB25/30 into VL while you're up in brisbane? was reading some of your posts on PF and saw you did this kind of stuff regularly that's all.

Yeah its similar outer dimensions to an rb20det box.

re the wiring, i can do it but will need to sort out dates accurately later in december.

re the instr cluster, i replied to the pm

cheers

hello there

I have a r33 series 2 GTS-T.

do you sell the

1. front lip

2. rear speaker bracket... have a look at the picture

3. the cover that covers up the battery compartment in the boot

please let me know. thanks

post-22619-1131367978.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

7.jpg

The drivers side 1/4 is perfect, the passenger side is missing the GT badge and not as good condition. I'll sell the passenger side panel for $100

Edited by Bozz
Hey mate, With the R34 gearbox will i need to change my tail shaft, i have a r33 skyline rb20e....

Dayne

Absolutely no idea :D

I'd imagine the answer is the same tailshaft will fit but I've never swapped a 31/32/33 gearbox for an R34 one.

The only different gearbox I know of is the GT-R, VL turbo commodore and R33 GTS25t gearbox that uses the huge tailshaft yoke

will the gearbox stright fit into an r32 gts or is there modifying involved also r u negotiable with price?

I suspect it will bolt straight in but you may need a new clutch slave cylinder. I could be wrong though.

Offer a price via PM and you may be lucky and get it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...