Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well starting to look into options to build up the old 20's bottom end as power and age is starting to take its toll on the old girl.

i think that i am gonna go with arias pistons for the pistons, but not sure what kind of rods to source out?

who makes rb20 rods if anyone?

also i plan on working the rb20's head a bit, if anything to just clean it up and perhaps enlarge the valves a bit to aid in airflow.

thoughts please!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93802-building-a-rb20det/
Share on other sites

well starting to look into options to build up the old 20's bottom end as power and age is starting to take its toll on the old girl.

i think that i am gonna go with arias pistons for the pistons, but not sure what kind of rods to source out?

who makes rb20 rods if anyone?

also i plan on working the rb20's head a bit, if anything to just clean it up and perhaps enlarge the valves a bit to aid in airflow.

thoughts please!

err rb30's are single ohc .. :D

hey carl h...i have done pretty much what you want to do. i can say that the arias pistons are great.. haven't had any problems with them...they were nicely made with about 1 - 2 grams difference between the 6... so weight mathcing them was easy....

About the rods i dont know, i used the standard ones...just got them ballanced and weight matched....

in terms of head work i got the head ported and polished with 1mm oversized valves..you will find that ca18 valves are perfect for it..they are 1 mm larger than standard rb20 ones and fit with no trouble...

hope that helps....

Aaron

hey carl h...i have done pretty much what you want to do. i can say that the arias pistons are great..  haven't had any problems with them...they were nicely made with about 1 - 2 grams difference between the 6... so weight mathcing them was easy....

About the rods i dont know, i used the standard ones...just got them ballanced and weight matched....

in terms of head work i got the head ported and polished with 1mm oversized valves..you will find that ca18 valves are perfect for it..they are 1 mm larger than standard rb20 ones and fit with no trouble...

hope that helps....

Aaron

spot on there sir spot on!

as far as the valves, the standard ca18 valves will fit into the head? and if so 1mm will certianly aid in airflow into the motor.

how much power are you making with standard rods, everyone seems to have gotten in on a betting pool on my car when it comes to the motor's internals......

cheers!

in terms of power i havn't done a power run as yet..i am stil adding bits a pieces and changing things around. it made 138 rwkw before it all and this is auto so would be a bit more if manual.

It goes a sh1t load better since i did all of the stuff...the full potential hasn't been reached yet but from the mods i have done and from what i seen other people get i would say that it would have to be easy over 200rwkw...but it has alot of variables...you could put arias pistons in, other rods , over sized valves etc and still have the same amount of power that you started with or very little more...

it will aid greatly if adding biggger turbos and more boost etc

yes the valves do fit..they are in my car now !!

i guess it comes down to what you want to achieve with the engine on whether it will be worth it and whether it make a worthwhile difference.

And whether to get aftermarket rods.....

what do you want to achieve ???

My first recommendation would be to install the pistons for the RB23/24 kit (but leave the stroke the same). That way, you get a bit of capacity, but better you get a bit of off-boost compression (I think I calculated 0.5 increase in C/R). That gives you 9:1 C/R; considering the racing GT-R's we had in Oz ran 9.2:1 and 1.8bar, I think the RB20 will cope.

DRIFTER - if you stick a head of a larger capacity engine onto a smaller capacity block, you LOSE compression. Apart from the fact that a RB30 head will not fit comfortably on a RB20 block. And why would a single cam head flow better than a twin cam head. I think you are thinking of the RB25DE(T) head onto a RB30 block.

ebola...i am still runnning standard cams...but am running os geiken adj cam gears... waiting for gtr cams to see how they wil go with chipped ecu..there was a big thread about it a while ago....in terms of rev limit i have no idea....but with 20's power almost alwasy drops off after about 6800 - 7000 RPM so.....

Theres also a mass of threads about GTR cams NOT working in RB20 due to the ramp rate being greater compared to the standard 20 cams, and therefore the cars that have had GTR cams installed are struggling to idle. I would investigate those threads before throwing in the GTR sticks.

JK

well on my car i have tomei 260/8.8 cams with greddy gears and a gt30r turbo, so it is a bit laggy but pulls like a cut bastard to redline (8.5k).

i mainly want to build the engine not for outright power but for reliablity, i plan on keeping the car round for another few years and i cant imagine that the stock internals are going to keep up with the 450bhp the car puts out on high boost.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...