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this is for those of us who have eratic a/c operation

(somtimes cold but not all the time)

your ac has a self diagnosis feature you can use.

leave car undercover for a while.(60+degree interias dont help this test)

turn ignition on and start the engine, within 10 seconds hold the off button down till

1.the whole display lights up.(diag mode)to test the display.

2push the heat button now .if the ac has a major fault the code number will fash. if its ok 20 will be displayed.

3. push the heat button and 41will be displayed. this is the vent and fan test. while in this section u can run thru 41 to 47 by pushing the ambient button. the vent and fan speeds should go thru there differant stages. + ac comp.

4.THE IMPORTANT STEP push the heat button. this test runs thru the 4 temp sensors that are used to regulate the compressor outlet(coldness)

the 4 sensor temps are displayed in this order. by pushing amb.

outside

inside

air intake > (before evaporator temp)

refrigant temp.>( evaporator temp)

the outside and inside should be about the same.(leaving car in sun depletes this test)

the intake and refrigant temp should be the samish.

any masive variation between the two will cause the ac to stop working properly.

for example: mine was showing 28.5, 31.5,-23.5,10. (this is withe the ac running in the previus test(41-41etc)

clealy the car is not sucking in -23.5 degree air from the base of the winscreen!

now i know why the ac turns on and cuts out after a miniute or so.. it thinks its already cold so why run!

to fix this its a matter of replacing the sensor of concern with an apropriate thermister of the same value.

have a play with it and youl soon begin to understand how the climate control works. to make the most of it the car has to be at an evan temp on a coolish day out of the sun.

with the car running or if the ac cuts out while your driving along, quickly pull over and turn off the car and re start it. run through the diagnostic steps till step 4. the temp sensor test.

check them and if ones out of the ordonary thats the fault.(they might read ok at room temp,but can be overly sensitive(as with mine)

depending on interest on this il go into the 10 or so common fault codes you can get in step 2,and the rest of how to fix them.

ps. to revert back to normal ac just push the auto button. :P

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I did this yesterday as my air con does not work at all, and does not seem to engage either.

My temps during the test (was hot at the time)

30, 31.5, -24.0, 29

Would that mean that the same sensor as yours needs some attention? And also the evaporator might need to be replaced? It does seem to go on at all so it might just need re gas and new intake sensor?

Also my fault number was 25, the same as Oosh. What fault is that?

Cheers!

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code 25 is the sun load sensor(doesnt affect it)

it will show this if your under cover.

-24. thats exacly what mine does.

firstly go to step 3 (41-47etc)

push the amb button and get 42 thats full cold max.

if that gets cold this should work:

you need to get a 2k resister(makes it think its 15-20degrees)

hoked up to that sensor.

remove the glove box.

theirs some plugs with 2 wires in them on the ac unit up the top.

that one is the one with the 2 wires close together. not the wide one.(last temp)

un plug it and see if you got the right one(while looking at the temp displayed)

put the resister in the plug.(female one)

it should work now.

  • Thanks 1
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My a/c doesn't work but the circumstances are a little different - when I bought the car the ac had recently been re-gassed. After about a week the ac got weaker and now it doesn't blow cold air at all (it just blows ambient air). There are no funny noises, the belt is fine (idles up when doing compressor diagnostic - however the idle does not change under normal operation) and the flashing diagnostic code I get is 23 - I suspect a leak somewhere?

Ideas anyone?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heres the codes.

20-normal

21-outside air temp sensor

22-inside air temp sensor

23-water temp sensor(eccs one,2pin one on top hose outlet)

24-intake/suction air temp sensor(the one that plays up)#

25-sunload sensor(will display if you test out of sun)

26-pbr(air mix door/hot cold blending flap)

27-refigant temp sensor(other evaporator temp sensor)#

#two sensor plugs behind glove box

system check seqance? spelling?

1-display check

2-sensor check

3-mode door position check

4-actuator opp check

5-sensor recognition temp display check(5-outside,inside,intake,refrigant.)

6-temp adjust for display(knob customer who thinks the temp is diferant from what is displayed),its always out!!

hope that helps :D

ps.temp sensor resistance:intake and refrigant the same(#)

@20deg 2.65kohms

@10deg 3.99kohms

@0 deg 6.19kohms

so to trick them put a 5kohm resistor across the plug for the sensor so it thinks its about 5deg.

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Aha nice guide.

My inside temp shows as -30!!! Thats why it always blows hot frigging air. Good to get this fixed before summer.

I also get error 22 pointing again to the inside sensor. Do I need to replace this sensor? Where is it located so I can poke it :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

My air con compressor does not come on at all, so it isn't an issue related to this, but my sensor displayed -24 (stated above) and I have put a 5k across the correct plug and now it reads around 25deg.

It now blows the same temp air as outside the cabin rather than the heater, so doing this does work.

Cheers

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Hi guys, :(

Im a little confused, am i supposed to get a thermister or a resistor, im probably incorrect, but from my poor understanding arent they two seperate things? There is first mention of a thermister then resistor, also there is mention of a 2k resistor first and then secondly a 5k resistor, what and which am i supposed to get?

Am i supposed to plug this into the red circled plug? or the blue one? or does it slot in inbetween the blue and red circled plug?

Can anyone possibly take a photo or explain what i need to do please? :)

Cheers!

post-1899-1135490887.jpg

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does anyone have a solution to the a/c compressor not comin on?

it will come on if the relay is by-passed but then its on all the time.

someone said its got something to do with the climate control control module cos the relay isnt gettin the right signal

can any one help?

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Hi guys,  :O

Im a little confused, am i supposed to get a thermister or a resistor, im probably incorrect, but from my poor understanding arent they two seperate things? There is first mention of a thermister then resistor, also there is mention of a 2k resistor first and then secondly a 5k resistor, what and which am i supposed to get?

Am i supposed to plug this into the red circled plug? or the blue one? or does it slot in inbetween the blue and red circled plug?

Can anyone possibly take a photo or explain what i need to do please?  :D

Cheers!

Put the resistor across the plug you circled red. It should have only two connectors on the inside. I used a 5k resistor and now it reads around 20deg. You could try different types to get different readings, its up to you. Put one end of the resistor on one terminal in that plug, then the other side of the resistor put it on the other terminal on the same plug (red circled one)

Cheers

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Salad,

Check your refrigerant levels, its possible if there isnt enough refrigerant in the system it wont allow the compressor to start to protect the system, i had this kind of issue with another car, a simple regas fixed the problem.

It may not fix your problem though.

Cheers.

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i just had the system regassed, new reciever dryer, the new gas, new oil in the compressor. it only seems to do it when i restart the car after driving for awhile or if its really hot. spraying the front of the radiator with alittle water can somtimes fix it (sometimes).

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yeah, the guy I bought the car off got his mate to do it so I think it was a patch job to sell the car. I'd love to make sure that it is actually a leak (rather than a simple sensor fix like the one above) before I go to get it re-gassed.

If the air con was gased properly some dye should have been added to the system, so in the case of a leak you can get a special light (UV I think???) and it will show up along the piping somewhere.

With the rest of the system, if I have it completely turned off, hot air just flows through. It only stops when I press the recirculate button. I've got the feeling this is one of the actuators that switches between outside air, and air flowing over the engine (hot air).. If I turn just the fans on, I get even more hot air.. does anyone else have this problem?

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ok weird. I go into the diagnostic mode....

2. The error code is 25, cool it's under cover. BUT -26 also flashes at the same time!? What the?

the I press the heat button. It says "3" I can hear all the motors and stuff moving... then when It's done it flashes "30".. then it repeats the process.. shows three while it's moving everything, then flahses thirty...

then I press the heat button again and I get the 41 through to 47 thing.. thats cool...

heat button again and I get a "5"...(what does this mean??)

then the 4 temps..

1.27

2.26.5

3.27

4.22

The differnce isn't that huge so I think that the sensors are fine.. but there is a bit of random stuff as explained, does anyone know what this means??

Cheers.

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