Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I was having the problem with the hot/cold mixing actuator not working. When I got down in the passengers footwell I tried to move the rod by hand but it was completely stuck. After a bit of stuffing around I got the part with the motor that controls the actuator out and I started playing with it. When the motor was not connected to the other little cogs, it would run constantly. Also the cogs would turn freely on their own, however put them together and they wouldn't budge. Also I think I may have damaged the motor because after a while it wouldn't run at all.

Any ideas of what's going on?

  • 2 weeks later...

Is it possible to have the locations of all the temp sensors. My Outside, Inside and intake sensor are reporting -21.6 whatever which means it isnt connected or is dead, but as most people have noticed the downloadable workshop manaul's pictures are too monochromatic to define exactly where they are.

I know that the Inside sensor is below the ashtray and from what i remember it looks like a funnel, or is this an airhose for a gremlim inside the dash of my car...

Widebody180: Apparently the majority of motor faults is broken solder points inside the motor box. I saw a tutoral on how to fix it, and you to go through where your sterio and A/C controls are to get to it without removing the entire dash.

Cheers!

Paul

Edited by Helious
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi All ,

I have a 32gtr with the a/c not getting cold at all

i have done all the checks and all sensors temps are ok , all door and flaps work but still no a/c

Tried the FC option still no a/c

Had system regased - still no a/c

The compresor is not pulling in at all . the only way to make it pull in is to by pass the relay- then it will get cold

Any ideas as to where to look for the problem ????

Will be getting hot soon so would like it to work!!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

i have a r32 gts t

my a/c works but not 100% it is not as cold as i would like but i can live with it. i had to disconnect the hotwater hoses coming into the box. From what i have seen the flap is not working. My main problem though is when i turn on the a/c it does not throttle up the car so it will shut off.

my readings are -21, 25, -26, 27 and this is in the night.

questions though

1. i do not need the heater but will the heater flap open caz it not to be as cold as it should

2. does these readings show that any sensors are gone bad? if so whats the fix

thanx in advance

  • 2 weeks later...

Fault Codes

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

you fix sensors by replacing them. you add resistors if they are out of calibration - or - you want to over ride them.

Fault Codes

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

you fix sensors by replacing them. you add resistors if they are out of calibration - or - you want to over ride them.

so if my faults are21, 25, 26, 27 how do i know if they are gone bad or need calibration? or will i have to test the temp.?

  • 1 month later...

Hi all awesome thread handy info cheers guys, my ac prob is abit diff.

All the sensors and that seem to be swt but the ac blows ambient air and when I turn it on and off it always resets and goes back to 25 degrees. Anyone had a similar prob? Or able to help?

Thanks Corin

Hi all awesome thread handy info cheers guys, my ac prob is abit diff.

All the sensors and that seem to be swt but the ac blows ambient air and when I turn it on and off it always resets and goes back to 25 degrees. Anyone had a similar prob? Or able to help?

Thanks Corin

this is normal mate

Hey tested it on my mate 32 yesti and his one doesn't reset when u turn the ignition off, but it does when u disconnect the bat, anyways looks like I'll have to get an auto sparky to have a look

SMIK YER!!!1 this worked on my car , cost me nothing for the resistors too hahaha i got 2 and they were 6c each but the chick said they were on sale 1c each hahah so she just gave me my 5c back , went to the parking lot put the 2k resistor in and WOW cold freakin air ! love it , thanks heaps for everyones input

Franco

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have one and it was at ~43.5PSI.
    • Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
    • I've uploaded logs / the current map to Gdrive if anyone has any ideas. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FPnr22Z-EilG7tYdHSi0Qb07P2jfFLKV?usp=sharing
    • I'm running a Haltech Platinum Pro with the stock map for the RB20DET + tweaks for my build. When I started it this morning, the IAT was at 32F/0C (Outside temp was ~42F) and the AFRs went off the scale for my AEM gauge. I let it run for ~30 seconds then turned it off. I then did a smoke test, by hooking into a vacuum line directly behind the throttle body, and confirmed there was no leaks ( i let the smoke tester run for ~5 minutes / confirmed it was generating smoke before hand ). I then started the car again, after fixing a power steering leak.... and it seemed to be happy for ~30 seconds (was at ~11/12), but then seemingly shot back up to ~18 again. I then let the car run for a few minutes, thinking this was just cold start related, but the AFRs never came back down. I didn't let the car fully warm up, so maybe this makes sense, but I'm not sure what to do? The AFRs, when I last ran it, were normal, but because of personal reasons I haven't been able to break in the car. It was rebuilt last year. Engine / Mod list: Supertec pistons Spool rods Kelford 270 cams and Springs Stock crank Deatschwerks 900cc injectors Walbro 255 (Wired directly to the battery relocated in the trunk) NKG Audi R8 Coil packs + Conversion Harnesses from Wiring Specialties Holset HY35 turbo Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Haltech boost controller (wired in for high boost RB25 Neo transmission + needed bits for the speedo to work  
×
×
  • Create New...