Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so ive managed to get mine working after all this. the wiring ended up being the issue with a short on a couple sensors. i seen some guys were complaining about the air con not remembering the temp they set it at when turning key off. in the FSM the is actually a STEP 6. when in step 5 press the fan button to enter step 6 and you can turn memory on/off and also correct the temp +/- 3 degrees

  • 1 year later...

hi fellas.

ive got an R32 with same problem, thanks to google i stumbled on this thread and ive noticed that some people are sticking resistors in to trick the control unit into thinking its 20+ degrees inside the car. i think i may have a better solution and thought id share.

so these are the sensor charateristics:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/10258865_10152074674351402_5938012635183684773_o.jpg

i found these 2.2kohm thermistors on ebay for 5 bucks:

GA93521 2322 640 63222. Vishay BC Components Thermistor , NTC 2.2K 5%

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GA93521-2322-640-63222-Vishay-BC-Components-Thermistor-NTC-2-2K-5-/141252970692?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item20e35548c4

so theyre 2.2k ohm @ 25deg C

according to the skyline manual we need 2.65k ohm @25deg C so they should be in the ballpark.

dunno if this helps anyone, but information is valuable and sharing is caring.

  • 4 months later...

I did a diagnostic test on my A/C and the only error I got was the inside temp sensor at -30C. So I'm planning to do the 2k resistor trick but I'm unsure which sensor needs the resistor, Is it replacing the resistor in the inside temp sensor itself or placing a resistor on the sunload sensor?

  • 2 years later...

The thermistor, which I believe is what you are referring to as the refrigerant sensor is located on the ac core inside your dash. In my r33 I was able to access it by removing the glove box and getting a little crafty. In the end it was just a loose connection on the plug that made my problems go away. If the thermistor isn't working, it wont allow the compressor clutch to activate.

On 11/26/2016 at 9:14 PM, SiR_RB said:

Ah yep mad thanks for that

seems like my values are fine but blend door motor isn't working so just ordered a new one from Nissan via japan

should be here soon

Could you link me where you ordered it from? I've been trying to revive old blend door motors to no avail and can't find the specific actuator either.

On 12/2/2016 at 9:29 PM, -Tom said:

Could you link me where you ordered it from? I've been trying to revive old blend door motors to no avail and can't find the specific actuator either.

I opened it up and re-soldered the pins on the actuator and it works again 

  • 2 weeks later...

It's been asked many times but no one stating exactly where they are located, can someone please tell us where they are on an r32 Gtr:

intake temp sensor 

refridgerent sensor

i know the outside temp sensor is the black one on the AC fan behind the grill

and inside temp sensor is the one next to the ash tray

 

thanks

Ok so had my AC regassed Afew months ago and was working good except for the blend door motor issue

last month or so started blowing warm airso I got a brand new blend door motor through Nissan, 

put that in, and still blows warm air, did the diagnostic test and came back with no errors and all the sensors read fine

compressor still engages if I turn it on but only warm air comes out, I suspect it's leaking somewhere even though I put brand new Nissan AC o rings at all the joins

he has put a die in the gas, would it visible to the naked eye where the leak could be ? All the johns look good dunno if it's the condensor/ac compressor/evaporator box under the dash ?

 

any input or help would be great thanks

If the leak is real bad, you will be able to see it with the naked eye. If small you need to use a uv light. I had a leak in a previous car and the a/c guy pulled out a special uv torch. It turned out the leak was coming from the previously replaced o ring that hadn't seated properly. $300 later it was all fixed.

Ok I found my leak

the rubber hose coming off the compressor and goes to the front of the car, had 2 pin hole leaks, I removed bother bibber hoses, the other goes from compressor to firewall

and have pirtek install new hoses on the fittings aswell as fire sleeve to protect it from the heat

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Awesome thread! I just bought an R32 GTR and the aircon was only blowing the windscreen and was not cold at all. I discovered the aircon relay was dead (900 ohm across the coil). A friend gave me one from his GTR and it measured 60 ohm. Now I can hear the compressor kick in. I removed the mode selector motor and hooked it up to my bench top power supply. It moves, so I moved it to a position where it was shorting one of the "combs". Installed it back into the car and it works! The aircon is cold, but not icy cold. I think during the sun it will not be good enough.

I ran the tests and get no fault codes. The temps as 32,32.5,25, 4-10. Is the refrigerant temp too low or is this normal? It was reading much higher before I fixed the relay.

I haven't yet checked if my temp control door is working correctly, but I know for sure that is directs hot air at my feet if I set the temp to 32.

On 1/18/2017 at 10:19 PM, BoostedBarge said:

Awesome thread! I just bought an R32 GTR and the aircon was only blowing the windscreen and was not cold at all. I discovered the aircon relay was dead (900 ohm across the coil). A friend gave me one from his GTR and it measured 60 ohm. Now I can hear the compressor kick in. I removed the mode selector motor and hooked it up to my bench top power supply. It moves, so I moved it to a position where it was shorting one of the "combs". Installed it back into the car and it works! The aircon is cold, but not icy cold. I think during the sun it will not be good enough.

I ran the tests and get no fault codes. The temps as 32,32.5,25, 4-10. Is the refrigerant temp too low or is this normal? It was reading much higher before I fixed the relay.

I haven't yet checked if my temp control door is working correctly, but I know for sure that is directs hot air at my feet if I set the temp to 32.

Temperatures look okay.

My aircon seems to be cold when it's below 25 degrees but when it hits 30+ it won't cool the cabin..Does anyone know if this is a sign of low refrigerant or if my compressor has just carked it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a 6 boost manifold and it has loads of bends etc. turbo has a cover however manifold doesn’t so I started to wrap what I could without taking turbo off. Very restricted area   are you stating wrapping could lead to cracking weld? Is that because heat is retained?    i have a exhaust gas temp right after turbo and it hits 700degree or 800 at times.   there are areas which is impossible to reach with fibre glass cloth. Is there anything I could apply such as the photo shared earlier which would formulate around exhaust pipe in difficult to reach areas, sort of like aluminium foil flexible to shape it in place?   i think from earlier reply you mentioned acl? Is this what you meant?   https://www.nstparts.com/product/acl-heat-shield-700x275     photo of my engine bay   https://ibb.co/9grHsMN https://ibb.co/bXC8KRM https://ibb.co/KV3kGZc   I am trying to cover bottom of the exhaust manifold which joins the turbo. Only way is to take turbo and possible manifold out as it also touches the engine mount which I don’t fancy doing
    • So....I managed to fix the belt coming off problem, but unfortunately i destroyed my oil pump. While testing and hitting my rev limiter a bunch, my oil pump took a shit. I actually heard it break. In my great wisdom i decided to hit redline 5 times (original plan). Lowered it to 7500 for the soft limiter. Normally it would come off on the first go. The 6th time I hit the limiter the pump broke and as i began accelerating again and hit it the 7th time, oil pressure dropped and the protection kicked in. It actually made a "tink" as if i dropped something hollow.   The motor is pulled and should be rebuilt and put back in 3 weeks. No bearings were spun and i could have gotten away with simply replacing the pump, but since i had to pull the motor....might as well build it   I made a billet tensioner and the belt stayed on without getting frayed. I also made one for a friends R33, but I was thinking of using a hydraulic unit to keep constant pressure on it when the belt stretches.
    • Yeah 98 for me, and 6.7/100 was my actual usage. On the downside the bloody thing still isn't running properly but at least they hybrid system is happy now. It starts but missfires like a bastard, and isn't throwing any code except "missfire". Thanks scoop. I did notice the AFMs are reading quite different at idle 1.33v and 1.67v so 25% variance (and have both changed and swapped them, the issue stays on the driver's side afm) so I'm looking for exhaust restriction (mouse nest?), compression issue or (hopefully not, no physical damage seen) wiring issue. Throttle might also be an issue but that is harder because you can't swap them side to side and not cheap to fire the parts cannon at.
    • I hope you're right and it somehow justifies it's existence!
×
×
  • Create New...