Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello All

I have a 1995 GTS-t RB25DET Auto

with th following mods

3'' full exhaust with dump pipe

GCG 450hp Hi flow Turbo

Pod Filter

Hybrid FMIC

Splitfire Coils

FCD

10 PSi Boost

18 degrees timing

My tuner cant seem to get much more then 210hp at the wheels

my ecu is doing the Rich and Retard thing its driving me nuts

What is my options for a ECU for the AUTO or do i go for a full ecu and do a manual conversion.

I would prefer to keep the Auto cause its nice to drive (my missus has to drive it too....with kids....)

I was hoping with startard injectors to hit 250-300hp at the wheels

but it seems that the damm ecu wont let me.

I have been searching the forums for weeks trying to find a clear cut answer to no avail.

Guys i know someone out there can help me

no matter what it still has to retain drivibilty.

HELLLLLLLLLLLLP!

Champ get a compresion test some thing is wrong

i get 242rwhp @ 8psi

mods i have

3' exhaust with hiflow cat hiflow turbo

pod

fmic with plumb back

eboost 2 at 10psi 250rwhp all day

tho my dyno guy was very suprised

you need a g reddy e manage with ignision harnes there is a good thread on hear

james

Champ get a compresion test some thing is wrong

i get 242rwhp @ 8psi

mods i have

3' exhaust with hiflow cat hiflow turbo

pod

fmic with plumb back

eboost 2 at 10psi 250rwhp all day

tho my dyno guy was very suprised

you need a g reddy e manage with ignision harnes there is a good thread on hear

james

sorry wrong message quoted.

Can you point me to that thread mate I cant find much with the search funtionalty

cheers

Speak to a guy on these forums called toshi

He remaps rb25 ecu's. This means he will write a new map for your standard computer so you will retain factory auto settings.

cost is something like $300 + dyno time from memory :blink:

he has done heaps of ECUs and knows what he is doing

Cheers:)

PMDW

some thing is wrong with your dyno results

they are soo low i hav less mods than you and push wat you are after without an ecu auto as well that is y your thread interests me

was the car in second gear wen dynoed?

is it serviced much?

is it a good operater?

how long have you had it?

james

james

he is running a bigger turbo... there is probably nothing wrong at all.

@ 10psi his bigger turbo is more than likely moving more air, spinning out the ECU more than yours.

I wouldnt worry about the figure at all.

Get an SAF-C II onto it and go from there

R31Nismoid

Dont you think 210HP not KW is a little low for the mods he has

and will a bigger turbo lower the over all HP

I thought they just lagged more

210 hp =150 kw @rw

sorry i think some thing is up with that

james

he is running a bigger turbo... there is probably nothing wrong at all.

@ 10psi his bigger turbo is more than likely moving more air, spinning out the ECU more than yours.

I wouldnt worry about the figure at all.

Get an SAF-C II onto it and go from there

Actually you are right on the money the more airflow is maxing out the ECU

I have pretty much decided to get my factory ECU remapped when the nismo injectors turn up that way i dont have to dick around with splicing looms and such and everything will work smiko i'm hoping for 230 to 240 rwkw fingers crossed and it will still look factory i'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks for pointing me to that e-manage thread mad34 and the factory ECU IS the way to go.CEF11E cheers mate its gunna save a lot of heartache

R31Nismoid

Dont you think 210HP not KW is a little low for the mods he has

and will a bigger turbo lower the over all HP

I thought they just lagged more

210 hp =150 kw @rw

sorry i think some thing is up with that

james

Miller, the stock ecu sucks, they are not all equal.

Nothing is wrong with his car.

plus its auto also... you loose a good 10rwkw in stock form... more power you put in the more your going to loose :P

but yeah, get some management and then re-asses whats going on as currently you cant really get a good idea.

If something is wrong you could spend ages looking and not find it as there are too many things with a bigger turbo and stock ECU.

Get tuning in there and post up the results.

I'd be interested to see what comes of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...