Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

14 minutes ago, HarrisRacing said:

Sure. Stock cadillac ctsv makes 485 whp on this dyno. Stock focus RS mashes 318 whp on this dyno.

But it's inertia so mine looks like it spools late. I also live AT sea level. Was like 5 C in shop that night so cold dense air.

update to a 100mm cooler mate

  • 1 month later...

xlarge.unigroup-dyno-12mar2018.png.b1c2e

334kw in 2WD mode on -7s :)

Nistune (tuned by Unigroup)
Xforce split dumps
Aftermarket front pipe (56mm(2.25“) ID primaries/76mm(3”) sec), 3.5in matrix 100 cell cat, 3.5 in Trust Cat back
Blitz SSBC boost controller
Xspurt 1000cc injectors
LS2 (D514a) coilpacks
Trust Intercooler, about the same size as stock
Sard 280l/hr high volume fuel pump with direct earth
Mobil M1 0W-40

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Solid 11 mid to low 11 second car there Adam ;) a car I built was tuned by Yavuz. It ran 11.3@125 with 330rwkw ;)

I see 3.5 in Trust exhaust and instantly think TR :D One of the best exhausts ever made for any Nissan!!!!

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

My R32’s previous config was setup as a Targa car, roughly 300kw @ the wheels using a pair of GT-SS's and some supporting mods.

It was time for a change – my new setup is focused on track days.  To be clear up front, I’m not chasing dyno numbers here!  The brief to RacePace was to build it once and give me a responsive engine with reliability. 

·      N1 Block

·      RacePace stage 2 2.8

·      9 litre sump

·      100mm Intercooler

·      1,000 cc Injectors

·      Borg Warner EFR 8374 T4 1.06A/R

·      Twin 40mm waste gates

·      98 PULP (E85 on the cards in the near future)

I'm super impressed with the response and looking forward for its first track shakedown..

Dyno.jpg

  • Like 6
  • Haha 1

My New R32 GTR
Stock RB26
Stock dumps
Greddy downpipe
R34 GTR Intercooler
Garrett -7 turbos
Intake Pods
17 psi boost (looks like cut on top end)
Same dyno as used on my old car
93 octane pumpgas (USA)

Dynos start at 10 psi and move up from there.

Screenshot_20180422-203217_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20180422-203155_Gallery.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎6‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 3:39 PM, WantGTR said:

Ill get a print out next time im at the workshop. Will race it soonish and report back with mph.

1.01 or 1.21 rear? 32-33psi?

On 4/20/2018 at 4:45 PM, Scott Mc said:

My R32’s previous config was setup as a Targa car, roughly 300kw @ the wheels using a pair of GT-SS's and some supporting mods.

It was time for a change – my new setup is focused on track days.  To be clear up front, I’m not chasing dyno numbers here!  The brief to RacePace was to build it once and give me a responsive engine with reliability. 

·      N1 Block

·      RacePace stage 2 2.8

·      9 litre sump

·      100mm Intercooler

·      1,000 cc Injectors

·      Borg Warner EFR 8374 T4 1.06A/R

·      Twin 40mm waste gates

·      98 PULP (E85 on the cards in the near future)

I'm super impressed with the response and looking forward for its first track shakedown..

Dyno.jpg

Hi do you know what rpm full boost?

5 hours ago, Nosure said:

Hi do you know what rpm full boost?

I had a similar setup (except the .92 IWG) and would make 20 psi at 3600 rpms if I punched the car from 2k in 3rd. 30 psi before 4k rpms. Stroker 2.75L on new N1 block and stock bores. Almost same power on pumpgas.

On 7/17/2017 at 5:24 PM, Trailmix said:

 R32 GTR

530hp@19psi

2.8l (supposedly)

tomei cams

tomei manifolds

700cc injectors

nismo fpr/pump

R34 N1 (AA403) turbos

hpi elbows 

mines frontpipe

Decat

HKS exhaust 

tomei ecu

 

 

 

IMG_1794.PNG

I see that this dyno is in question. On my previous post you will see new garrett -7 turbos (extremely similar to N1's) on my RB26 car which is a stock engine with greddy downpipe, HKS hi power exhaust, and intake pods on 18-19 psi boost. We are making the exact same HP at 5k and the curves look VERY similar aside from your max power. I find hard to believe that this is a stroker engine on those turbos. It's either a stroker on -5's or is a really healthy high-flowing 2.6 on the -7's (which I find more believable). Check your stroke by running a rod in a spark plug hole and measuring high and low of the stroke while you roll the engine to know for sure. 

9 hours ago, WantGTR said:

1.01 

32psi

Same turbine housing as mine. Your dyno figure kind of matches my results. All things being equal... 580ish @ 32psi hub dyno figure vs. 530ish @ 26psi on a roller dyno.  I'm looking forward to seeing what mine makes at 32-33psi.

 

Looking forward to seeing your dyno sheet to compare response between the RB26 vs. RB25/30. Also looking forward to seeing what MPH yours runs at the drag strip.   

16 hours ago, HarrisRacing said:

I had a similar setup (except the .92 IWG) and would make 20 psi at 3600 rpms if I punched the car from 2k in 3rd. 30 psi before 4k rpms. Stroker 2.75L on new N1 block and stock bores. Almost same power on pumpgas.

Thanks for reply. That’s great result. What power it made on what psi? I’m looking for get 8374 iwg or 9180 iwg. But no result I can find.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...