Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HKS 2.8 (86.5mm), Tomei Pon Cams
Precision GEN2 6266 Twinscroll, 1.5bar/22psi
98RON Shell VPower, 660cc injectors, HKS in tank pump

611hp/455kw at the rear hubs at 6600rpm , 510lbft at 5200rpm

Before we built the 2.8 this turbo made 577hp at 1.2bar/18psi on a 2.6 with 87.5mm pistons (basically 2.7) with similar response.

received_10155769694146476.thumb.jpeg.7cb613f0cce97611588d7f8e526955b4.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...

1991 GTR 

- stock RB26DETT (shows signs of a refresh but can't confirm)

- gt2860-5 twin turbos

- stock injectors

- HKS green mushroom intake

- 3in exhaust line

- HKS down pipe

Safe tuned at 356rwhp at 15psi.

(i will eventually upload the dyno curve once I get it by email)

 

 

image.jpeg

  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/2/2017 at 11:10 AM, Darmanin10 said:

R32 GTR

gtx3576r with 0.83 rear housing
Tomei poncams & cam gears
1000cc xspurts injectors
3.5 inch exhaust 

344kw @ 22psi

 

16326530_1637692409859469_673530307_o.jpg

Same setup, but now forged engine setup for track abuse.

Needs bigger injectors for more power, as they are maxed out at this level.

1102422031_20180913_PaulDarmaninNissanGTRR32kWVsbOOst.thumb.JPG.29497fe2725a22d23aa8ee61468f9ff4.JPG

The RED line is cam timing before
BLUE  line is cam timing after
ORANGE line is high boost.
  • Like 1

1991 R32 GTR

Stock motor, headstuds

Rebuild JDS Performance R32 Turbos, N1 exhaust wheel, billet compressor wheel

Midori 3" outlets

2.75" to 3.5" twin pipe

3.5" exhaust

Modded twin turbo pipe

HKS hard piping kit

Blitz front mount, size big

Radium fuel rail, 1050x injectors, walbro 450

Full AEM sensors w/Infinity

Custom intakes since MAFs aren't required anymore

505AWHP 398TQ @21 PSI, 5280 elevation

Really happy with the power for the small turbos! 

Dynorb26.png

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

1992 R32 GTR

HKS GT-LC low mount twins (Unknown specs. Would love more info on these but can't find it!!!)

Haltech PNP on stock MAP sensor

Stock Intake

Stock Dump Pipes, Blitz Front Pipe, 3" Test Pipe, Fujitsubo 3" Catback

DYNO GRAPH 

(Red Line: 408HP, 356 lbft; 16-18psi, 91 octane) [Blue line is Jap tuned ECU on 101 octane]

Next Steps (advice welcomed):

Greddy MAFless pod filter and pipe intake kit

HKS Cam Gears

Tomei turbo outlet pipes

ID1050x injectors

External MAP sensor

Walboro 450 fuel pump and rewire

Greddy 12 row Oil cooler and Filter Relo

HKS SSQV BOV kit

Twin Plate Clutch (Nismo Super coppermix or alternative)

ARP head studs

Metal head gasket

Possibly E85

Shooting for 550hp before i run out of puff from the snails.

 

Edited by UMZenki

N1 RB26
Poncams
-7s
Haltech elite 2500

427hp on 98

507hp on e85, somewhere around the 21 psi mark. Boost solenoid was on max duty.

Will be back with a high mounted GTX35.

NODORI_DYNO.jpg

Edited by sleptema
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
On 12/20/2018 at 7:17 PM, sleptema said:

N1 RB26
Poncams
-7s
Haltech elite 2500

427hp on 98

507hp on e85, somewhere around the 21 psi mark. Boost solenoid was on max duty.

Will be back with a high mounted GTX35.

NODORI_DYNO.jpg

What version of Poncam's are on this? -7's seem to be on quite late. 20 psi at 5000rpm?

  • 2 months later...

Engine - Stock Rb26 Bottom end

Head - Tomeii type b poncams & tomeii adjustable cam gears. Brian Crower springs, supertec valves and guides

Turbo's - Twin factory mounted TD05-18g's, billet wheels with billet actuators

Brain - Nistune, turbosmart eboost street

Exhaust - Stock ex manifolds and dumps, Nismo front pipes then high-flow cat to 3.5 inch exhaust straight through to cannon

Fuel and supply - 98 PULP, 1170 xspurt injectors, nismo fpr, 450lt/hr pump

Intake/Cold side - Nismo AFM's, stock everything else stock including airbox, intercooler, blow off valves, piping and inlet mani

352kw's at the tyres on 19psi. Quite laggy but not as bad as expected, full boost hits just under 5k, 5 degrees adv on inlet cam, 2 on exhaust picked up heaps of mid-range. Very happy with the result, Mark from MRC worked his magic again, I was very nervous about those turbos, the stock airbox and exhaust manis/dumps but all and all it's great! I'll post a graph up shortly.

  • Like 1
What version of Poncam's are on this? -7's seem to be on quite late. 20 psi at 5000rpm?
On an intertia dyno I could see this being the case. -7 are significantly later on threshold and lag compared directly to 8374 efr single FYI all

Very similar, they are Mamba turbos. So non bb cartridges wich would be the only real downside other than the size for the 2.6. Be interesting to see them on a 3.0+

Are these t517z turbos?
  • 3 weeks later...

R33 GTR
Clicked 100,000kms on a budget built 2.6 on an old Power FC with 255rwkw so decided it's finally run in and went single turbo. [emoji23]
-proboost gtx35
-ETM manifold
-50mm turbosmart wastegate (18psi spring)
-1000cc Bosch injectors
-walbro 460
-standard cams
-adaptronic ecu
E85 of course

Manual boost tee maxed out, one slight turn and it just overboosts,
Needs a proper boost controller.

376.4kw on 23psi
Tuned by Jez
received_2168388766806398.jpeg

13 hours ago, JDM33R said:

R33 GTR
Clicked 100,000kms on a budget built 2.6 on an old Power FC with 255rwkw so decided it's finally run in and went single turbo. emoji23.png
-proboost gtx35
-ETM manifold
-50mm turbosmart wastegate (18psi spring)
-1000cc Bosch injectors
-walbro 460
-standard cams
-adaptronic ecu
E85 of course

Manual boost tee maxed out, one slight turn and it just overboosts,
Needs a proper boost controller.

376.4kw on 23psi
Tuned by Jez
received_2168388766806398.jpeg

Any chance you ran a 98 tune also?

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Forged RB26 (Sleeved block, 87mm Pistons, rods, rod bolts, head studs, N1 oil pump with billet gears, Tomei sump baffle, Tomei metal head gasket etc...)

-7 turbos rebuilt with larger billet wheels

Nistune ECU (Latest update - Flex Fuel, Boost control etc)

Standard Exhaust manifolds and intake piping (Port-matched to suit bigger wheeled turbos)

1250cc Injectors

460LP/h fuel pump

Nismo AFM's 

Standard Air-box with CAI and K&N panel filter

Splitfire Coil packs

Kelford L182a cams

Greddy cam gears

Plazmaman 76mm intercooler

 

391rwkws @ 24psi (how it's driven) E85

417rwkws @ 26psi (airbox just cracked open) E85

335rwkws @ 20psi (how it's driven) 98RON

 

IMG_0799.JPG

IMG_0800.JPG

RB 28 with GTX3584RS used as Track car

HKS step 2 2.8 full counter rank rods and pistons

HKS 272 exhaust cam

HKS VCAM Pro with 10.2 lift

Ported head - ferrera valves etc

Peterson dry sump running vacuum

N1 block

Nismo Plenum

Modified ITB's 

6 Boost stainless steel Promod manifold (Small runner)

GTX3584RS

1.21 rear housing

E85

Runing through Sachs carbon carbon clutch and flywheel (3kg)- Albins straight cut transmission and Nismo diff

stopped at 26 PSI 562 RWKW  was 420 KW at 13psi   705 ftlb torque.

 

Have posted so anyone thinking of using this turbo can see the results. 

Probably a better choice would be the precision PT6870 or 6875  with a large runner manifold

 

 

 

Dyno.jpg

1.jpg

2.jpg

Edited by Paul T
1
  • Like 10

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...