Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 01/03/2020 at 1:10 AM, BrianJ said:

Foreword: car is in US, results inflated at least 47.9%. Fake News It Must Be True GIF by moodman

 

  770ish Hp pull was done on 28psi and E78 from the pump. The lovely dyno snapped a belt roughly 1000rpm before my redline hence the gorgeous graph. At that point after the worst imaginable experience with that shop, lasting over 30 months, I trailered the car elsewhere to be properly tuned, not just WOT, and swapped the 0.84 rear for a 1.32. Dyno Type is an old dynamite model, stock R32s read around 260whp without the boost pill in it. 

Final "glory" pulls were done on the 6466 with 1.32ar, Ignite Red 90% ethanol (NOT 85% like the graph states), and 37psi peak. I dont have any relevant comparisons for this dyno unfortunately. 

20200229_104756.jpg

 

I wouldn't say that is complete freedom merica dyno

I did 620kw/830whp on 32psi with a 1.15 6466 on a 2.8 similar sort of mods. mine wouldn't take anymore boost to make a significant amount more power. I think the nismo intake needs the ditch and update the hks cooler to a new plasmaman unit.

Best indicator is the trap speed, update it when you make a pass!

 

dyno-final.thumb.jpg.687274af610e58ad840d63a5c6b04917.jpg

2 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

I wouldn't say that is complete freedom merica dyno

I did 620kw/830whp on 32psi with a 1.15 6466 on a 2.8 similar sort of mods. mine wouldn't take anymore boost to make a significant amount more power. I think the nismo intake needs the ditch and update the hks cooler to a new plasmaman unit.

Best indicator is the trap speed, update it when you make a pass!

 

dyno-final.thumb.jpg.687274af610e58ad840d63a5c6b04917.jpg

what mph does your car run?

3 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

I wouldn't say that is complete freedom merica dyno

I did 620kw/830whp on 32psi with a 1.15 6466 on a 2.8 similar sort of mods. mine wouldn't take anymore boost to make a significant amount more power. I think the nismo intake needs the ditch and update the hks cooler to a new plasmaman unit.

Best indicator is the trap speed, update it when you make a pass!

 

dyno-final.thumb.jpg.687274af610e58ad840d63a5c6b04917.jpg

Seems like the 6466 tap out around the 620-650kw. Im 620kw on 31psi on e85 on hub dyno

14 hours ago, ido09s said:

what mph does yours run? have you raced it?

No yet, last meeting was cancelled due covid lockdown. New season starts in September so will be out then to see what it does.

17 hours ago, Dorifudo said:

Seems like the 6466 tap out around the 620-650kw. Im 620kw on 31psi on e85 on hub dyno

I am trying to get as much as possible out of the 6466, as it is a great multi use turbo.

I predominately prefer circuit/sprints (leave it at about 1.2 bar), however enter Racewars (1000m events) and the drags on occasion so the 2 bar kill all tune is handy for those.

And this is why i hate dynoes and the black top doesnt lie.

If your car only manages to run 146mph with 620kw at the hubs i would be asking your tuner whats wrong with it.

We have an S14 that makes 500rwkw @33psi with a 6766 and it runs 138mph all day on low boost.... low boost is about 430rwkw. I havent had it back to the track since we put more power in it and made the 500rwkw but would be expecting something like 144mph with the boost turned up.

Correct me if i am wrong but power at the hubs would be worth what, 50rwkw gain? so your cars making close to 150rwkw more, comparing it to low boost on our car, but only runs 8mph more.....

16 hours ago, ido09s said:

And this is why i hate dynoes and the black top doesnt lie....

This is why I don't really like to talk about dyno numbers anymore (or really a lot of technical stuff), unless I feel like the audience are capable of having a sensible conversation about.  Dynos don't tend to lie either but it's all data and like any data - how useful it is doesn't just come down to how it's measured, its no use if people who are interpreting it aren't capable of taking context and you end up with comments like this.

620kw range, possibly even a bit more is about right for a 6466 pushed hard on a hubber on E85.  Sure, it'll make less on a Dyno Dynamics dyno but these days you hope most people know that and don't need to act like someone is lying.

Also, if you throw the donk from an S14 into a full weight R32 GTR with stock transmission you probably shouldn't hope to run the same trap speed.

  • Like 1

The S14 was always making over 400rwkw on the Advan dyno when I worked there. Took it to Unigroup and it struggled to crack 300rwkw.... Clearly if dyno's don't lie then it must be the operator. Its a little hard in this instance to explain the vast differences in performance isn't it? I am referring to mine and Hattori's cars

Whats a GTR weigh? google is telling me 1460kgs.... so it has 60 kilos on the S14.... the S14 is a compete street car, doof doof and spare wheel all get left in place when I race it. its 3100 pounds on the weigh bridge at Sydney Dragway. Throw me in it and its closer to 3300 pounds.

So lets compare apples with apples.... mates old GTR went 11.0@130mph with a pair of low mounts on Bob Jane All Rounders lol It made 300rwkw.. Standard bottom end and stock box. One would expect 275rwkw to put on a tad more than 18mph.... the S14 went 20mph faster with 50rwkw difference.....

3 hours ago, ido09s said:

The S14 was always making over 400rwkw on the Advan dyno when I worked there. Took it to Unigroup and it struggled to crack 300rwkw.... Clearly if dyno's don't lie then it must be the operator. Its a little hard in this instance to explain the vast differences in performance isn't it? I am referring to mine and Hattori's cars

Whats a GTR weigh? google is telling me 1460kgs.... so it has 60 kilos on the S14.... the S14 is a compete street car, doof doof and spare wheel all get left in place when I race it. its 3100 pounds on the weigh bridge at Sydney Dragway. Throw me in it and its closer to 3300 pounds.

So lets compare apples with apples.... mates old GTR went 11.0@130mph with a pair of low mounts on Bob Jane All Rounders lol It made 300rwkw.. Standard bottom end and stock box. One would expect 275rwkw to put on a tad more than 18mph.... the S14 went 20mph faster with 50rwkw difference.....

comparing R32 GTR to R32 GTR  775whp / 146mph is about right.

 

 

8 hours ago, Lithium said:

This is why I don't really like to talk about dyno numbers anymore (or really a lot of technical stuff), unless I feel like the audience are capable of having a sensible conversation about.  Dynos don't tend to lie either but it's all data and like any data - how useful it is doesn't just come down to how it's measured, its no use if people who are interpreting it aren't capable of taking context and you end up with comments like this.

620kw range, possibly even a bit more is about right for a 6466 pushed hard on a hubber on E85.  Sure, it'll make less on a Dyno Dynamics dyno but these days you hope most people know that and don't need to act like someone is lying.

Also, if you throw the donk from an S14 into a full weight R32 GTR with stock transmission you probably shouldn't hope to run the same trap speed.

Addressing all of the comments regarding the 6466 results, I wholeheartedly agree that firstly, a dyno is a tuning tool and at the power ranges most of us are getting to (even if they are 'Merica #'s..) its also a safety tool. 

I built the car to be a Circuit/Sprint/Hill climb car that maintains all the creature comforts as well... so basically a "for fun" level of competition along with being able to actually street drive. 

 

That ~890whp/670awkw set of pulls was done with a fairly optimized setup and tune was full effort kill mode thats not indicative of how I roll around on the street, and with the Mac 3 Port pretty cranked. I believe at the 37psi level, going up from 36psi netted around 6hp. There was no real point to go that far on it. Right at 34psi was where it began to lose a little on the 1.32ar. 

 

I will absolutely get some times from the drag strip, hopefully sooner than later as they look to be opening back up slowly post-apocalypse. The only "results" I have for now are doing some street pulls against a friend riding my motorcycle. Against a "Tuned/Bolt on/Geared" 2016 Aprilia RSV4 RF that traps 145-148, I (in the R32 GTR..) pull about 3 car lengths from 60-160 on 60% BCDC or 34psi/E85 which was roughly 840whp. 

 

Either way, I love the 6466. It is pretty phenomenal to have a (ill be generous) 850whp capable turbo that truly drives around with good street manners and boost threshold on a overbore 2.6L. Its a jack of all trades for sure. 

 

I look forward to some 9280 EFR results from you guys, seems to be a pretty big hitter from the limited info I've seen posted so far. 

I agree, dyno is only a tuning tool the the dyno numbers are really just a pissing contest. Real way to see power is the mph at the end of the 1/4, with my power im expecting to hit the 145-147mph trap speed. My purpose of the car is a weekend toy, doing the old school pick ups and the occasional coffee runs

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, Dorifudo said:

im expecting to hit the 145-147mph trap speed. My purpose of the car is a weekend toy, doing the old school pick ups and the occasional coffee runs

And there is the clincher - arguments about dynos and power figures aside, if you are talking a full weight R32 GTR which can run solidly in the 140mph range while still being pretty responsive then who cares if the dyno reads 400kw or 900hp, that is a fast street car!

And my intention wasn't to cause an absolute shit fight, I was trying to stir the pot somewhat though.

Dyno's are nothing but a tuning tool but sadly there are many out there that would use this thread as a bible and you really shouldn't. There are way to many variables that need to be taken into consideration which most wouldn't even realise. 

I cant wait till the drag strips open back up. Sadly Sydney Dragway is about to be torn up and isn't likely to be 100% operation until September which is pretty disappointing given it was shut down for last 3 months due to Covid. Shit happens though

Hahaha... THAT is why i love the setup. It can solidly trap in that 140 range all day pretty consistently, and a "bit" higher if i want. In a full weight R32 GTR, thats PLENTY for me. 

The real joy for me however is being able to hit a Circuit, lap after lap, in a 30 year old Nissan and put some hurt feelings on modern Supercars. Yes in that case driver makes as much difference as the car ill admit, I've been lucky enough in life to be able to spend a lot of time on the track and instruct others as well. People think im insane for choosing this platform in the US as the cost per lap/maintenance/etc is pretty silly. But who cares when the Cup 2 R's are at temp and lightly scrubbing in a 3rd to 4th decreasing radius and your gates crack right next to a caged 991.2 GT3 RS or Cup Car. 

Its the simple things in life. 

Theres certainly much quicker and faster cars than mine, but like Hattori pointed out, the setup/turbo flat out works as an all-arounder. The new hot tech is very impressive and I'd love to see a properly executed F1 style KERS + Alt driven Electric Turbocharger or a few other crazy pieces of technology on the horizon. 

Thay being said these cars are so hyped up with the numbers game that its easy to overlook how much fun you can have with "only" 500-600hp in an R Chassis. Let alone 800+. 

 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
On 12/06/2020 at 7:11 AM, cliptonz1 said:

 

1994 R32 GTR

 
Engine:
 
HKS 2.8 stroker step 1 86.5mm
ATI 1000hp balancer
Platinum Racing rb26 brace 
Garage101 extended sump
N1 water pump
Nitto oil pump
 
 
Head:
 
Kelford Cams 274in/274exh 10.55mm (182-S)
Kelford Cams CNC’d ported head
+1mm oversized valves
Kelford Cams beehive springs 
Kelford Cams titanium retainers
HKS Cam gears
Nitto 1.2mm headgasket
ARP ca625+ headstuds
Nitto gaskets inlet/exhaust
Spool head drain
Hi octane direct cam baffles
 
 
Turbo/manifold:
 
6boost vband manifold
Turbosmart progate 50mm wastegate
4” dump pipe to 3.5” system
AES resonator and muffler
Garrett GTX3584RS 1.01 rear
 
 
Fuel system:
 
Bosch 1650cc injectors
Turbosmart fpr 1200
Frenchys performance garage twin intank 
Walbro 460 fuel pumps x2
-6 feed speedflow 200 series hose
-6 return speedflow 200 series hose
 
 
Ignition:
 
Platinum Racing r35 coil kit
Platinum Racing trigger kit
NGK Copper spark plugs
 
 
made 472hp on BP98 18psi by 4500
 
Will be going e85 when I sort out my getrag and will turn it up. 
 
trying to figure out why it nosed over up top

CE1F836F-2401-44CB-B8BC-2EEEA043BC9A.jpeg

Finally got the 2.8 retuned on e85.

 

low boost 564hp (420kw) on 19psi

high boost 705hp (525kw) on 35psi

turbo is out of boost. Can’t wait to actually drive the old girl.

3C6C83C6-EB35-4135-B4D7-E2D417E928FD.jpeg

  • Like 2

changed to a gtw3884r 67mm with a 1.0 rear, went 624hp at 26psi. Full trim on a soft launch went [email protected] and a 3825.05lb race weight.

 

Yet to turn it up, twisted the rear half shafts.

Fat broad minded person of a thing

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
    • I know this is a super old topic, but what ended up being the problem?
    • I know this is an old thread but I have a particular attachment to the ENR34, so I don't think additional content hurts. For starters, I agree with everyone here in that the performance of a stock R34 GTR is a pretty low bar and one that you're going to spend a lot of money "matching". Now if you're willing to deviate from that template as your goal, you'll be much better off and enjoy the car much more. The engine in the NA R34s is a real kick in the nuts in terms of upgradability compared to previous generation NA cars. The NA heads on the RB2X NEOs have MUCH smaller intake port cross sections and are not compatible with any of the aftermarket forward-facing manifolds available for the RB25DET. This can be remedied with a RB25DET NEO head, but those are expensive relative to what they are. A full long-block from a turbo AWD Stagea is generally a better value and will run you about $4000 USD to get it to you. This will get you the stronger RB26DETT rods, as well. That would give you a base to build off of to be safe in the 400whp range. Not shooting for the moon, but if the stock R34 was your bar, this engine would buy you enough to be just North of stock GTR power. A forward facing manifold would allow for the easiest method toward using Bosch EV14 format injectors such as those from Injector Dynamics and FIC, to name a couple. People hate them because they're copies, but Greddy fakes can be had for around $300 USD. With what the fuel rail, regulator, injectors, and the rail adds, figure $2000 USD for the whole setup including the manifold. With the OEM brackets and a bit of trimming to the ends of the lower frame rails, the OEM intercooler mounting brackets can be used to mount an OEM GTR intercooler, or an aftermarket one made for a GTR. Those are handy vs a universale due to the angles that the end tanks have on them. Then your plumbing become super straightforward at that point despite having to cut a hole where the battery is an a matching one on the other side for the pipes. Battery can go to the trunk. I'd round up to a healthy $2000 USD here too (maybe even a tiny more) to allow for a nice aftermarket unit and some pipe fabrication. Or if you can find someone that's upgrading to something larger, the used market comes in clutch here for a decent savings. I won't even get into turbo sizing as that's something that would be for yourself to determine. HOWEVER, for the purposes of your stated goals, a Borg Warner 7064 with an internal wastegate would be a perfect spooler and would make stock GTR power easily. It would also bolt up to your OEM manifold (that would come with the DET you purchased a couple steps above) if it were ordered with a T3 flange. More with adequate fuel. If you can stick with the OEM exhaust manifold then expect to be in the whole about $6000 USD for decent turbo like the one suggested, a down pipe, new O2, and full exhaust to mate up, and upgrades to the integrated BOV in an EFR or a standalone BOV for a different turbo, as well as an aftermarket IWG (internal waste gate). Those last two are definitely optional and unnecessary. All of this stuff above does you no good without any way of tuning and or monitoring the engine. Bite the bullet on a standalone engine management solution. If your experience with wiring is limited, you're going to have to hand it off to someone else, though. Unfortunately, the adapter/patch harnesses available are typically made around the GTT which does not include AWD, and the GTR, which integrates into a lot of chassis features that aren't present in your wiring interface. So the ENR34 is the oddball. So you'll want to expand a bit on your selection and find an ECU that's capable of running the ATTESA pump also. I have a Link Thunder, but you don't need quite that much ECU to accommodate that. You WILL need someone with the know-how to tune it and code those features into whatever software it uses. And to wire it up. This will be your most significant expense. Call it $6000 USD with an ECU, an okay wiring job (no motorsport grade at this price), aftermarket triggers and R35 coils, and the time it takes to tune the ECU with added features (electronic boost control solenoid, MAP, IAT, the new triggers, and ATTESA) and don't be surprised if it's more if you want better work done. Grab a clutch made for any RB pull transmission R32/R33GTR made for the power handling capacity you're looking for. Budget $1500 USD for a new good one. That's about $20,000 USD for an engine you've upgraded yourself and had wired and tuned by someone else. That's no brakes (ENR34 brakes are pathetic), suspension (again, pathetic), or wheels and tires. So you're pretty spot on in terms of spending $30,000 USD extra on the car just to get it to perform a little better than a stock R34 GTR while looking like a bone stock ENR34 with some wheels and suspension mods. That doesn't include fluids, maintenance items, gaskets/seals, repairs needed or anything else discovered along the way. But you'll have a car you can take to the track and have fun without worrying as much about nicks and dings.  
    • Okay so, please read this. car started and ran fine. got my tuned ecu by RSenthalpy, did a bunch of pulls to test it out and finally drive the car after half a year of it just sitting and idling at most. Everything was good, thing ran flawlessly and had so much power, didn't feel slower than a Prius anymore. Parked it back and turned it off.  Next day, I install an AFR and start the car. Didn't wire anything to the ecu. Just gauge.  Car started, but died out in about a minute. I figured it was cause my car was on a lift and the fuel was really low and old. I add 5 gallons of fuel, still cranks but no start. I remove all AFR wiring (tapped into double din acc and power wires but there was a nest of wiring there so I was worried I messed something up. tried to put it back to how it was prior to afr install.) Still cranks no start. Changed spark plugs with brand new ones Changed fuel pump with a new one (verified working) Did compression test , compression came back all at 150ish. All fuses are good, Relay seemed good but ill double check by switching similar relays around. Verified MAF is working - Ended up getting curious as to why fuel pump is not priming when ignition is on, so I cut the fuel pump ground and power and connected them directly to a portable jumper. I also disconnected fuel line to fuel rail to verify fuel is being sent. So with direct jumper power, the fuel pump turns on and shot gas everywhere through the fuel pipe that I had disconnected, so ny doing that, I verified no clogs in fuel lines or filter. - Tried starting the car with that jumper directly wired to power and ground, but car still did not start. I'm guessing its a CAS issue but im a little scared to check it without messing up timing or anything else since I actually dont understand how to check CAS lol. If anyone has any other suggestions or recommendations , please let me know.
×
×
  • Create New...