Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what dose an RB20DET rev to?

myne rev's to about 5'200 rpm but can the engene rev higher on standard internals if had the ecu chiped. or do you still need cam's to rev higher than 5'200

thanks guys, i hate to bother you with all my stuped questions but i feel if i don't ask ill never know! :D

If it only revs to 5200rpm then you have a problem... I am pretty sure stock they rev to just over 7000rpm.

I know the RB25DET is 6900rpm usually, and the RB26DETT is 8250rpm. I was pretty certain the RB20 revved higher than the 25.

Edited by Amaru

i am sure the smaller displacement alows for the rb20 to rev higher then the rb25, i only take mine up to 7 r33 gtst, mind you it has over reved a few times and i would hate to see where it ended up at.

the engine will still rev past that to a bit past 7 but every thing after 6'200 the power starts top drop off. i gusee what im asking is will replacing the ecu let it produce more power past 6'200 rpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Would be good in your car I reckon Johnny. Have seen reports they don't seem to love circuit use and sustained high RPM, but there's so many variables and implementations it's hard to tell fact from fiction.  All that said, is it worth it in this car given how you feel about it? Probs not? 
    • I don't know specifically. I *do* know that it is very likely that historically most/all undertray replacements remove the inner liners and people just run without them. When you are hectic (or serious) enough to really want/need a different undertray, you are probably also running wider, taller or different offset wheels and the guard liners are the first thing that rub (or as I said in the other thread, they blow out at high speeds anyway) Of course, that is before the pricing went nuts on R34s, nowdays it is much more likely people want/expect to retain the liners to protect their overall investment
    • Haven’t had a chance to drive it properly yet. It was rwd and pissing down rain when I drove it home and now it’s in the air with the so I can change the oil. Going to do the  gearbox oil while I’m at it as well, may even do the diffs 
    • On 12th June, the mechanic could not figure out what the issue was, but the car seems to be flooding with fuel. He was suspecting the tune, thus referred me to a tuner. Although the tuner is not familiar with Nistune, last Monday (30th June), he came over to try and re-map it. Despite the tuner trying to completely stop fuel, it kept sounding like it was pushing fuel. Tuner ended up suspecting either the ECU or Injectors. I do not believe the ECU or Nistune is the issue, as the Nistune software reads and communicates properly. Today, I removed the (new) injectors to see if they are clogged or leaking. Surprisingly enough, after those 3 days of driving, injectors 2 and 3 look very blocked. You can see the difference in the picture. I blew a bit on 3, that is why it doesn't look as clogged as 2. I am still unsure if this is what is causing the no start issue, but I am now feeling that I may have bought the injectors and Nistune without the need to do so, as the problem seems to be coming from somewhere else.  
×
×
  • Create New...