[updated!] Need Help! - Dash Symbols For The R34

[Viscount]

Hey all,

Just wondering if someone on this forum could identify a warning light that came on the other day in my R34 GT. It is an amber/light yellowish symbol in the top right hand corner of the dash which seems to look a bit like an engine or something.

It is common across all cars, but my R34 manual (a condensed one which came with the car) doesn't explain what it means, and in my parents car (a Jeep) it seemed to have a very broad/generic meaning (for example coolant needs changing or fuel tank has lost some pressure).

I don't think it warrants me taking it to the mechanic straight away, as it may be something that I can easily fix (say if it was actually coolant).

If no one understands my description of it, I'll draw a picture of it and post it in the next day or two (currently dont have the net at the house I just moved into).

Cheers

UPDATED: The problem is back! - Please see my last reply!

Edited May 4, 2006 by Viscount

[Driver]

Mine came up when my o2 sensor was not plugged in properly.

I dont know what else it detects...

[Mr Sniper911]

Hey, i looked it up in the Service manual and it could be a number of things...

Malfunction in ECU, Malfunction in mass airflow sensor, Malfunction in engine coolant temp sensor, Malfunction in Vehicle speed sensor, Malfunction in ignition signal curcuit, Malfunction in overheat self diagnosis, Malfunction in heated O2 sensor, Malfunction in throttle position, Malfunction in Turbo pressure sensor.....

So as you can see it could be a lot of things..... in the service manual it shows you what you can do to diagnose these.....

I got my Service manual from HERE You just need to register to download it

Hope this helps a little

Mr Sniper911

Edited November 7, 2005 by Mr Sniper911

[Viscount]

Thanks heaps mate. I ended up just dropping my car into the mechanics since it's due for a service anyway. My car was also vibrating more than usual at low revs so I thought it might be something a little more serious than a sensor malfunction. Anyway, cheers for the help people.

[666DAN]

Vibrating at idle.....coilpacks!

[cookie300zx]

hey jono

what was the cause of the light? also did your engine ever cut out? on my HSV the light was coming on due to a CAS error code, and then it was cutting the engine.

[CWest]

Mate its the coil packs I BET.

It happened to me on Monday and sure enough it was and I ended u taking care of it.

Its happened 2 times b4 as well b4 this. Dont get your mechanic to charge a heap of money trying to solve it, just tell him to check you coils.

BTW Tim says hi.

[Viscount]

Cheers for the feedback people. I took it to a mechanic who quickly thought it was a coilpack or spark plug problem. After investigation though, he found oil in chamber 6 of my engine (or something like that) and discovered my car had only been running off 5 cylinders. So they stripped the head to investigate the cause, suspecting it was a failed rubber fitting which stops oil getting into the engine (or something a rather - I have no idea what he was saying, but my dad understood most of it).

Anyway, parts and labour + the fact I got it serviced at the same time means the bill is going to be $2000

I don't think these guys have pulled a red herring though, since for starters they seem genuinely trustworthy and also they kept ringing us to tell us what they had found out, or what they planned on doing to get approval.

Basically he had replaced the spark plugs and checked the coils etc. and it was only going to cost a few hundred dollars, but he couldnt guarantee that that would have fixed the problem, and thus my dad told him to investigate further.

Edited November 20, 2005 by Viscount

[CWest]

Cheers for the feedback people. I took it to a mechanic who quickly thought it was a coilpack or spark plug problem. After investigation though, he found oil in chamber 6 of my engine (or something like that) and discovered my car had only been running off 5 cylinders. So they stripped the head to investigate the cause, suspecting it was a failed rubber fitting which stops oil getting into the engine (or something a rather - I have no idea what he was saying, but my dad understood most of it).

Anyway, parts and labour + the fact I got it serviced at the same time means the bill is going to be $2000 

I don't think these guys have pulled a red herring though, since for starters they seem genuinely trustworthy and also they kept ringing us to tell us what they had found out, or what they planned on doing to get approval.

Basically he had replaced the spark plugs and checked the coils etc. and it was only going to cost a few hundred dollars, but he couldnt guarantee that that would have fixed the problem, and thus my dad told him to investigate further.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Wow thats no good.....

PM me which mechanic u are using if you dont mind.

How long has this been going on for ?

You have been servicing regularly right ?

[Viscount]

Hey again.

Just an update.

About two weeks ago the light came back on. My car was due for an oil check and minor service two months ago, but since I had gone away for 2 months at the start of the year, I was delaying the service by two months (my car wasn't used whilst I was away). Anyway, I took it into the shop, and this time they got a different Error code (which I can't remember what it was now - something to do with a lose connection or something). So they plugged it back in, and I picked it up. Whilst driving home however the light came back on so I did a U-turn and headed straight back.

Today I picked it up again, this time they had installed a new Crank shaft sensor, which was in response to the engine code that had arisen in the interim. They had first installed another cars sensor to check that it was the culprit, and had had one of their mechanics drive it home to see if it was showing the same symptoms. After letting it idle and giving it a good few test drives, they once again believe they'd finally solved it. Once again however, upon driving it home, the light came on again.

Now here are the symptoms:

- Firstly, the check engine light is coming on at inconsistent intervals. It may occur on consecutive drives, or it may not occur at all for a few drives in a row. This is what makes it particularly difficult to check if the problem has been solved. It also occurs at different time intervals - it can come on straight away when you start up, or it may come on 20 or 30 minutes into a drive.

- When the check engine light isn't on, the car runs perfectly. However, as soon as the light comes on, the car starts shuddering ever ever so slightly. Since my R34 is generally ultra smooth whilst idling or driving, I will notice the shuddering even before the check engine light comes on. It's almost like the car has the minutest stutter, and continues to slightly misfire. One of the mechanics who was test driving it said that he stopped at one point and the light came on, then when he went to accelerate the car lost quite a noticeable amount of power in acceleration.

- The shuddering is almost certainly rhythmic, as it tends to happen once every 1 - 2 seconds, even in idle.

Anyway, if any of you have any ideas on whats happening (perhaps a Skyline specific problem?) I'd appreciate to hear it. I really do trust the mechanics who are dealing with the car - they are extremely friendly, have great customer service, and genuinely are twisting arms to try and get it back running smoothly - another friend of mine also gets his car serviced at my mechanic, and also has had a great record with them. I also don't blame them for missing it during testing - the problem is really too sporadic to say it occurs consistently.

I'd appreciate any comments - this problem is costing an arm and a leg and I have insurance coming up !

I also am having a few problems with the people who worked on my bonet after some person reversed into me (it wasn't my fault and insurance covered it without jeopardising my no claim bonus). When they resprayed the bonet they did a pretty poor job - there are quite a few marks on the bonnet where a few particles must have fallen during the respray. They are quite noticeable though, and really it's not good enough. The engine bay was also incredibly dirty (reminants of paint dust) and considering I also got the car detailed at the same time it was clearly not a finished job. Furthermore, there are specs of paint on the windscreen wipers and areas are the rubber sealant on the windows which I will demand to be removed (or replaced). I just thought I'd also get that off my chest.

Cheers

Edited May 3, 2006 by Viscount

[Andi]

As a few have said: it is most probably your coilpacks mate. Did the mechanics replace your ones? The R34's are common to have 1 or 2 failing and the fact that you've stated that the cars idle roughness is in rhythm means that the car sounds like its running on 5 cylinders.

[666DAN]

Please refer to my previous statement

[Viscount]

Please refer to my previous statement

Yeh thats what they are currently looking at. The first time I took it in (ie. when this post was started) I believe they checked the coil packs and said that it wasn't them (I believe them since when they ended up fixing it, it worked without a problem for just under 5 months - you would think if they hadn't replaced the coil packs, and it turned out to be coil packs originally causing the problem, that it would have resurfaced its ugly head sooner).

Now, just a question. They already replaced the crank sensor last week, after I gave it the go ahead. However, I did so only after they said that they had thoroughly tested the car with another cars crank sensor installed, and the problem did not show up. Also the mechanic said he was 99.9% sure that it was causing the problem. Now that it turns out that it obviously wasn't, is that grounds for me to ask for a refund do you think, for the new $400 part I no longer need?

[cookie300zx]

Now, just a question. They already replaced the crank sensor last week, after I gave it the go ahead. However, I did so only after they said that they had thoroughly tested the car with another cars crank sensor installed, and the problem did not show up. Also the mechanic said he was 99.9% sure that it was causing the problem. Now that it turns out that it obviously wasn't, is that grounds for me to ask for a refund do you think, for the new $400 part I no longer need?

good luck jono

doubt they will give your money back

[CWest]

Hey John

Been a while mate. When they said its the coillpacks did they replace one coil pack or all 6, because if they only replaced one then most likely another one has failed. This is why in general you get all 6 replaced at the same time. The sympton u describe is exactly what has happened to me twice now. Last time about 2 years ago and I replaced one coil pack and the car was fine for 1 and half years and then it happened 6 months ago. I replaced one coil pack and it stopped for a month and started again so I got the whole lot of them replaced with spitfire ones. No problems since.

Basically the whole car will be running fine and then you will feel the car struggling and the revs missing, sometimes you can hear it just before it happens and then you will see the check engine light. You can then turn off your car and then turn it back on and it will be fine for about 5mins and it might happen again. Sometimes doesnt happen for a few days sometimes everyday. Mate this is what it sounds like then for sure its your coil packs.

I spent a lot of money last time trying to figure out what it was in the end all I had to do was get them replaced, should of done it 2 years ago.

Jack

[Crimpage]

And if you read ALL the threads on here about how often this occurs on R34's you will notice that even if they replace them, the problem can easily come back. There is a DIY in the tutorial or general maintenance or Splitfires seem to be the way to go.

Dave.

[CWest]

My fault, I didnt mention that I DID actually replace them with a set of Spitfires. Its about 650 all up.

[Viscount]

$650 is quite reasonable compared to what has been invested already. The previous solution in November cost alot more, cuz they stripped the head.

I was just talking to my mechanic then, and he informed me that they didn't actually change any coil packs last time since it was a spark plug problem. This time however I just posed whether it was worth replacing all coil packs and he said from a bang for buck, it probably wouldn't be, but he is going to investigate the prices anyway. At the moment they have narrowed it down to 2 coil packs, and they are going to just charge me for the part on this occasion, no mechanic costs which is great since they have spent quite alot of time fussing over this problem (they had been swapping possibly problematic parts individually with another R34 to isolate the problem).

[CWest]

John, each new coil pack from Nissan will be 250 so for 2 thats $500. You may as well get a set of Spitfires (6 coil packs) for $650. Sooner or later your other 4 old coil packs will also fail and then you will go through this whole process again.

BTW I have a brand new coil pack from Nissan sitting here in the office which I didnt use as I decided just to go for Spitfires in the end. If it takes them 2 long to get the part (took my mechanics 2 weeks) PM and I can sell you this one. But I still think the spitfires are the better solution.

Edited May 23, 2006 by CWest

[jinhuynh]

My r34 gt got the same problem. Last time when i had it checked at the mechanic (some imports experts as they said), they told me my car had ECU problem after check it with their computer (they said drive strain problems, I think) and change the spark plugs. Since it's a tiptronic non-turbo, they told me it is nearly impossible to find new ECU or aftermarket ones. They told me I have to find a half cuts or just take out the engine check light and sell it. By the way, anyone knows any trust worthy mechanics around Melbourne that can handle this job? I very appreciate if anyone let me know so I can fix my car instead of selling it. This problem is killing me for months.