Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i know the new style bi-xenon's are actually all in 1 projector. Basically, when the normal lights are on, the hi-beam is actually on as well, but shielded. But if you need to flick to hi-beam, it's ready to roll as the hi-beam is already on... it's just the shield that moves.

So basically hi-beam and lo-beam is on at the SAME time, it's just the hi-beam is always shielded when not needed.

From the look of your pics, you have 2 projects, 1 hi-beam, 1 lo-beam?

unfortunately i'm not handy enough to be retro-fitting Xenon projectors to my R34 headlights, although i wish i was. I'd prob have to source another set of R34 lights if i did even want to attempt it, as i'd imagine it would take me a while :rant: Would love to to do it though.... does change the front look of the car quite a bit though.

Does honda have a bi-xenon option? or would i have to get some new BMW/Merc/Audi bi-xenon projector?

well i know the new style bi-xenon's are actually all in 1 projector. Basically, when the normal lights are on, the hi-beam is actually on as well, but shielded. But if you need to flick to hi-beam, it's ready to roll as the hi-beam is already on... it's just the shield that moves.

So basically hi-beam and lo-beam is on at the SAME time, it's just the hi-beam is always shielded when not needed.

That is correct, there is a solenoid which operates and moves the shield out of the way giving the full xenon lamp unshielded for full beam! :)

From the look of your pics, you have 2 projects, 1 hi-beam, 1 lo-beam?

No, I have 4 x Bi-Xenon projectors, as in all 4 on for lo and hi beam!

Engine20.jpg

*** Ignore the sidelights, that was just a trial fit! ***

unfortunately i'm not handy enough to be retro-fitting Xenon projectors to my R34 headlights, although i wish i was. I'd prob have to source another set of R34 lights if i did even want to attempt it, as i'd imagine it would take me a while :rant: Would love to to do it though.... does change the front look of the car quite a bit though.

Does honda have a bi-xenon option? or would i have to get some new BMW/Merc/Audi bi-xenon projector?

I chose the Audi units because they are Bi-Xenon and because they are made by Hella and therefore fit most headlight units, the BMW ones don't fit in the R33 headlight units (Bi-Xenons that is). As for the Honda units, I don't know to be honest, it wasn't an option available to me at the time.

Edited by Matt J

that is INSANE!!!!!!!! 4 bi-xenon projectors!!! you MUST put up some night time pics when you get the chance....

you must blind everything within 50km's of your car in a 180 degree arc :cool:

that is INSANE!!!!!!!! 4 bi-xenon projectors!!! you MUST put up some night time pics when you get the chance....

you must blind everything within 50km's of your car in a 180 degree arc :cool:

I'll take some pics early Feb when I get home.

They are bright but still road legal on lo beam, on high beam... they are just AWESOME!

Very rarely get other road users complain about the brightness - only time I get flashed is when going up hills etc when the shield cutoff falls or rises into oncoming drivers, oops.

That is correct, there is a solenoid which operates and moves the shield out of the way giving the full xenon lamp unshielded for full beam! :P

No, I have 4 x Bi-Xenon projectors, as in all 4 on for lo and hi beam!

Engine20.jpg

*** Ignore the sidelights, that was just a trial fit! ***

I chose the Audi units because they are Bi-Xenon and because they are made by Hella and therefore fit most headlight units, the BMW ones don't fit in the R33 headlight units (Bi-Xenons that is). As for the Honda units, I don't know to be honest, it wasn't an option available to me at the time.

heard about abbey motorsport do some wicked GTR............is you one making 550 plus HP......ohhh....mad ass lights tooo

heard about abbey motorsport do some wicked GTR............is you one making 550 plus HP......ohhh....mad ass lights tooo

Mine is a hand built 'Top Secret' tuning Japan/HKS 2.8 engine with HKS T04Z and OS Giken 6 speed sequential, all the work (engine fitting, fuelling and tuning) was carried out in the UK by Abbey Motorsport - just shy of 600BHP ATW at the moment.

Thanks, I made the lights because the standard halogen units are vey very poor at night!

Mine is a hand built 'Top Secret' tuning Japan/HKS 2.8 engine with HKS T04Z and OS Giken 6 speed sequential, all the work (engine fitting, fuelling and tuning) was carried out in the UK by Abbey Motorsport - just shy of 600BHP ATW at the moment.

Thanks, I made the lights because the standard halogen units are vey very poor at night!

Twin turbo Light house........hell not bad at all.... :)

have you guys who put xenon projectors into non-projector headlights (eg. R33) used a trim bezel or make a fibreglass surround?

got some close up pics of them with the lights off?

i take it all you boys from the UK found this thread from here?

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/67640-ga...gtr-revamp.html

have you guys who put xenon projectors into non-projector headlights (eg. R33) used a trim bezel or make a fibreglass surround?

got some close up pics of them with the lights off?

i take it all you boys from the UK found this thread from here?

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/67640-ga...gtr-revamp.html

Yeah mate followed the link^^^

Never bothered with any bezels, I just gutted the halogen lights and rebuilt them with the Bi-Xenons.

I played around with bezels at the time but they looked much better without them so I left them off.

Not that it would be a massive job to fit bezels though.

I'll post some close up pics when I return to the UK....

  • 5 weeks later...

well here's how they look on the car.

i reckon they look like S2000 headlights a bit now.

I'm a bit worried that when they were assembled the cut off shield was put in upside down (ie. across the top of the projector instead of at the bottom of the projector), so the light once cut off and reversed by the convex lens allows light at the top and not bottom... (if that makes sense).

Will test them out and see if they've been done right soon...

med_gallery_1486_103_180477.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_576044.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_49037.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_55558.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_450987.jpg

wegs, seriously do a search man. I've done like a hundred threads on it. It'll be gay. that's it.

ronin, i'm not sure what you mean by havin gthe cut off shield across the top. If it is how I think it'll be, your light will be up, and the cutoff will be down the bottom, so it'll be reversed. THAT IS, if it is mounted how I think it is.

Cheers

MANWHORE,

remember that the lens flips the image upside down; like your eyes (your brain then reverses the signal from your retina so that it looks right-way-up).

So, if the cut-off shield is at the top of the assembly, the light is released at the bottom, then switched upside down by the lens and light will come out the top only.

Similarly, if the cut-off shiled is at the bottom, the light is released at the top, switched by the lens, and only light is released at the bottom (correctly.

I think we've put it together the right way :)

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...