Xenon Hid Lights Conversion For R32

[niZmO_Man]

If you think Mini H1's are good... You'll be blown away with:

* RX330 non-AFS projectors with E30 clear lenses / Osram 66240 D2S Nightbreaker's / OEM Denso slim ballasts

or

* RX350 BiXenon projectors with STi-R clear lenses / Osram 66240 D2S Nightbreaker's / OEM Denso slim ballasts

^^ that's what you call high performance lighting

That's what I call ultra high performance lighting lol.

I should really get some those Mitsubishi Gen4 ballasts, they sound good.

[sucram]

Instead of doing a separate full write up I will post what I did different too keep it all in one place

Bulbs are Phillips and Matsushita ballasts with FXR 3.0 3''

I found that placing the headlight glass in towards the heating element works better, it seems the glass transfers heat to the glue faster allowing lower temp/times to be used. I have tried both 200 deg c switch off and in for 10 mins and 100 deg c left on for 7mins since my RHS needed to come back out even after making sure they were good without both lenses fitted

I made a template from cardboard and transferred it to 2mm sheet alloy. I planned to make it from 3mm but I didn't have any bits the right size and didn't want to cut it from a bigger sheet I had. Turns out 2mm is fine

The first pic is a trial fit. If you choose to do it this way don't rush your cuts, the 2nd one needed a lot of work with a file since I got lazy and snapped a blade. I used a jig saw with metal blade to cut it. If you have a hole saw big enough that would be an option. You cant do it with a hacksaw unless you have a 360 deg diamond/carbide blade that cuts in any direction.

[sucram]

Double post

Edited August 1, 2014 by sucram

[sucram]

I trimmed the tabs that nismo_man used to mount his (see back a few pages, it wont let me link). Doing this gives room to use the oem nylon mounts

Edited August 1, 2014 by sucram

[sucram]

I cut these pieces to clear the lower adjustor. Make sure you cut the correct side for the corresponding projector

Edited August 1, 2014 by sucram

[sucram]

Here is a mounting bracket that is 90% complete. I have highlighted the holes that require elongation so horizontal adjustment can be made. I lowered the shield slightly which puts a little more pressure on the spring for the bi xenon and bending a tab on one side doesn't do much for horizontal. Left side was spot on, no adjustment needed. Drivers side gave me all sorts of problems, I had to remove it once as there wasn't enough, then after everything was aligned something went wrong when reinstalling the covers and it had to come out again.

Note, the pivot has to be Epoxied in place. 2 slots were cut so it could slide down into place.

[sucram]

Other side epoxied as well, one side of the pivot needs to be trimmed to clear the projector. Mounting holes are not yet elongated but I have drilled and filed all of the other mounts.

There wasn't any accurate way for me to do this. I split the old projector in half and used that as a "guide". Since the bodies are about the same size I could use that as a reference. Drilled a hole and started to file. If you do it this way line it up a few times to make sure your on target. it can be 1-2mm out but I doubt you can be much more then that.

[sucram]

Testing that the bracket fits the adjustors and pivot

[sucram]

Another angle, It doesn't look flat and its not. They adjustors are only just in there. If you have a close look at the nylon part of the adjustor you can see that 3mm sheet will be fine also.

If you happen to loose or break one, you can buy them from Supercheap/auto ban etc. They are in the screw/nuts/bolts section and called a body fastener. They are slightly different looking but will do the same thing.

[sucram]

Here is the drivers side installed with the adaptor bracket

This one required a little extra clearance for the lower adjustor, I did this with a round file

[sucram]

Here is a picture of the 5mm spacer that you will need in between the adaptor and projector. I made some from brass, but also reused the offcuts from the top mounts that I removed since they are perfect fit

Edited August 1, 2014 by sucram

[sucram]

Since im using OEM D2S I need to trim the back of the housing. I would have cleaned it up but, you know...

Some people have used gear boots to seal it up but I might use some CV boots since you can get cheapies for about $10 each. I plan to cable tie the big end and silicon the wires on the small end. If you have a simpler/cheaper alternative im all ears

[sucram]

Cover installed, at this angle it looks worse then what it is, you will never look at the light from this angle but at the moment, its staying where it is.

In the back ground you can see the ballast, this brand has quite a long lead and is waterproof, I just need to seal up the section where the connector goes as that is the only non water proof part.

Like I said, drivers side has given me grief. Left side went in, got adjusted and when everything was reinstalled is perfect. Not sure whats going on here, if it annoys me enough I will pull it apart

[sucram]

output pics to come later (sorry for being anti climatic), the drivers side is back out for some minor adjustment, something, unknown to me went of out whack even though I spent time setting up and aligning without covers fitted

Tools I used:

Drill with 10mm, 5 or 6mm drill bits

Marker, scribe, pin punch (spring loaded)

assorted small needle files, flat, round, half circle

Large flat bastard and half circle

Clamp/vise

Hacksaw

screwdriver

Parts you will need from www.theretrofitsource.com:

Morimoto FXR 3'' RHD (sorry I cant past links) $150 US

D2S (D2R also fits) $100 US (I suggest Osram Xenarc) or top tier Osram/Phillips are $190

Ballasts D2S Matsushita $170 US (Or Denso for $200 US which can be modified for more output)

JB weld $5

You will also need connectors for the ballasts you use, my Gen 3 matsushita didn't need a relay

What I did to my projectors:

Lowered shield slightly for larger hotspot

Moved shield forward to compensate for lowering

Twisted ends of shield to compensate for moving the shield forward

Fore ground limiter (currently removed)

1mm Bulb spacer (currently removed)

Sealed lower half with aluminium tape (was getting scatter due to mods)

*NB Don't play with your projectors as you can ruin the output. It might take you 5 mins or could take hours to get it right. I would suggest you read a lot before you play and then read some more. Easier option is just use the top tier bulbs and go from there

Overall I am happy to also recommend www.theretrofitsource.com their parts are good and they shipped the next day back after being on holidays!

Edited August 1, 2014 by sucram

[sucram]

Double post WTF again?!?

Edited August 1, 2014 by sucram

[nk7]

Thanks for the posts - but what headlights/car are you putting this in? Sorry if already mentioned.

[niZmO_Man]

Nicely done.

Thanks for the posts - but what headlights/car are you putting this in? Sorry if already mentioned.

They are R32 projectors, but the basic process is the same for all headlights (open, chop/cut/fabricate/modify for a clean fit and adjustability, re-assemble, enjoy).

[sucram]

I managed to find the problem, this adjuster was interfering with the bixenon spring. The passenger side didn't require clearance with a file and the bracket was measured in the same fashion but execution was rushed. I removed the adjustor and cut it 4-5mm

I also managed to align the projector and chrome housing. I unscrewed the pivot approx. 7mm. Attached a pic fresh from the oven (no adjustments made)

[sucram]

Mounted in the car after alignment, one projector slightly out would have annoyed me, even though I have never payed attention before hand

[sucram]

Output shots, before and after. I forgot what I used as a reference on the ground but its close enough to get an idea

Current globes fitted are old Phillips D2R in the left and D2S 85122 + that came with the ballasts. The D2r has had the painted glare shield cut off with a razor (4th pic)

In this pic I would guess im a car width to the left and further back from the wall

You can see there is some flare up at the steps. This wasn't there when I had the FXR's fitted without headlight covers. I can only put this down to the glass covers. It seems the more colour you have the more flare up. I couldn't quite get zero colour, nor could I get consistent colour over the entire cut off, well I could but I had to lower the shield so much that output would suffer.

3rd pic is not far off what I ended up with, without covers. I actually tried to get rid of the colour at the cut off since I already tested it with a housing and seen the flare up, the guys on hidplanet suggested there isn't much I could do and I eventually got jack of it and settled