Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

See this http://www.jwspeaker.com/blog/how-to-aim-headlights-driving-beam-or-high-beam-headlights/

From your second picture, seems like your passenger (left) side needs to go down, and your driver side (right) needs to move to the left.

But you really need to find a level ground with a wall.

  • Like 1
  On 29/06/2017 at 12:16 AM, niZmO_Man said:

See this http://www.jwspeaker.com/blog/how-to-aim-headlights-driving-beam-or-high-beam-headlights/

From your second picture, seems like your passenger (left) side needs to go down, and your driver side (right) needs to move to the left.

But you really need to find a level ground with a wall.

Expand  

Thanks NiZmo Man!

  • 7 months later...

Any updates on this for the R32 Projectors?

niZmO_Man.... is the Mini D2S 4.0 still the one to go for?

I'm looking for something that will be relatively easy to fit (don't mind a little dremel work) and stealth as HID in NZ is a WOF fail.....

 

do elaborate the procedure >_< when you get a chance

 

  On 16/02/2018 at 5:02 AM, niZmO_Man said:

Diode on the high beam wire, so the current flows to the solenoid when you hit the highs.

The high beam bulbs on my car have a separate relay wiring, so I use the standard wires for activating the solenoid.

Expand  

 

  • 5 months later...

I didn't take pictures of my dodgy wiring, but I'll make a neater harness so will take pictures then.

In the mean time, Morimoto D2S 3.0 projector with Osram CBI bulb, did a quick retro:

Ik7nQ12.jpg

1h2zYqK.jpg

 

Try getting that with a H1 LED bulb :P

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

So, I have a set of projector headlights that I intend on retrofitting and then performing a transplant for the N1s.

I have read through a lot of posts about HID conversions and some date back a few years. Is the best option the latest Mini D2S and stick to 35w / 4200k? I.e. no point in going above 35w and I am not interested in bright white / blue headlights.

Looking at Lightwerkz, it seems like you can buy the brackets as mentioned above:

https://lightwerkz.net/collections/retrofit-brackets/products/nissan-r32-to-d2s-brackets

Then build your own kit:

https://lightwerkz.net/collections/universal-kits/products/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-iii-d2s-1

image.png.59018ebcb3bd33b2ca9825e92095c727.png

Cheers

Rob

Not sure why Lightwerkz didn't list it anymore, but they used to let you select D2S or G5 projector to go with their R32 bracket.  G5 is cheaper and has identical dimensions to D2S, except the housing isn't painted black.  D2S has a more centralized hot spot and G5 is more spread out, you can check it out on their comparison videos.

https://www.youtube.com/c/LightwerkzGlobal/search?query=g5

 

  On 17/07/2020 at 4:31 PM, TXSquirrel said:

Not sure why Lightwerkz didn't list it anymore, but they used to let you select D2S or G5 projector to go with their R32 bracket.  G5 is cheaper and has identical dimensions to D2S, except the housing isn't painted black.  D2S has a more centralized hot spot and G5 is more spread out, you can check it out on their comparison videos.

https://www.youtube.com/c/LightwerkzGlobal/search?query=g5

 

Expand  

Thanks @TXSquirrel I will check it out.

BTW, it does mention G5 at the bottom of the page:

2x Nissan R32 to D2S 4.0 / G5 Conversion Brackets

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...