R32 Boost Gauge/turbo Problem

[JC_R32]

Next Instalment of my R32 problems....

The standard boost gauge i have (as you will all know) reads from -7 to + 7... NOW.. I have an exhuast system and airpod, and the boost is turned up a little via a bleed valve...

All these items have been on car since purchase....

Normally when i drive, and am not giving any throttle, it sits at -7, then goes up accordingly depending how much throttle i give..

Last night, driving up the freeway, i noticed that after i got off, it sat at the 0 mark.. and when i got to my destination and let it idle... it stayed at 0... it also started from 0 when starting up, and now stays there when not accelerating all the time..

I'm not sure if this means the turbo is on boost or not... I'm thinking it may not be, but need to be sure... I have a turbo timer, and drove to work this morning.. now, the turbo timer is pretty good in normal mode, where by if i drive 20 mins, at 60km or just normal peak hour adelaide traffic, it doesn't need to count down... this morning it didn't either, so im thinking that the turbo couldn't have been out of the norm, and been boosting, coz if it had, i would have to have done at least a 40 sec timer...

hmmm... anyone got any ideas? I also noticed when i accelerated above 100, there was a whistling/static electric sound, coming from near where you turn the headlights on... i also have a problem with them, where, i turn them on, and the front left light doesn't always come on...i have to jiggle the switch...

Someone help me please!!! I'm losing my faith in Jap cars... i sold my eurotrash for a japcrap...aaaaaarrrrrrgggghhhhh!!!!

[blind_elk]

0 means the manifold is at atmospheric.

Having the gauge show 0 constantly would most likely be caused by the hose to the gauge popping off, or maybe it has split open somewhere.

Time to go searching through the engine bay.

With the headlights, disassemble and clean the switch.

[B0oStEr]

More likely than not the hose from your plenum to the map sensor (small black box located top drivers side of the firewall) has cracked or fallen off and the whistle you hear near your headlight switch is probably boost escaping from the leak.

If the hose has fallen off or split at the end cut 15mm off it and pop it back on or replace it with some new 3mm vacuum hose.

The headlight switches are a bit unreliable . They can be pulled apart and cleaned but it's very fiddly with springs and tiny parts inside.

I did my switch and I also bent the internal contacts slightly to compensate for wear and it's been reliable for a couple of years since.

[colgf]

definite leak in the line to the boost gauge somewhere may be the t piece connection???