Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most R33, they have it sitting near the air Box,

but some how mine is on the driver side, under the guard. Not in the engine bay, its siting like a SMIC position, but on the driver side.

Bought it that way, and its 1 huge mathafaka. I seen other small canister, but my is like 3-4 times bigger!

  • 2 years later...

I've just been looking at my carbon canister and things don't seem right. Mine is in the drivers side guard. It has 3 fittings on the top, one is going to the tank, one to air, and one to the manifold. The hose coming off the throttle is blocked off. Is this a factory item or something that's been put on later? How should it be plumbed in, ie should the throttle hose be connected? There's no markings for where the fittings are meant to go.

There are three lines to the canister.

The most important of which comes from the fuel tank. Do not just blank this off or worse, leave the open end near your nice, hot turbo.

The other two lines connect into the engine intake.

The canister can be relocated to the RHD drivers side after you move the battery to the boot. Happilly the two connections to the engine intake are plumbed across the front of the motor. So you can use one of them to reconnect the fuel tank line to the relocated cannister. The two lines from the engine intake are then nice & close to the cannister & are easy to hook up.

That is what I did anyway.

I've just been looking at my carbon canister and things don't seem right. Mine is in the drivers side guard. It has 3 fittings on the top, one is going to the tank, one to air, and one to the manifold. The hose coming off the throttle is blocked off. Is this a factory item or something that's been put on later? How should it be plumbed in, ie should the throttle hose be connected? There's no markings for where the fittings are meant to go.

Post #12 if you read it, is pretty self explanatory.

Post #12 if you read it, is pretty self explanatory.

Not quite, the one I have is Australian made so I assume it was added during compliancing. The factory one seems to have had 2 connections for the intake, this one only has 1. Currently it has 1 air, 1 fuel and 1 intake line. Is it worth getting a replacement stock one, or stick with what I've got? If I stick with it, is the line to the intake better plumbed into the throttle body or manifold, or maybe use a t piece and connect it to both? Is a connection to air even needed?

Edited by _Scotty_

Is your car turbo? - sounds like your cannister is missing the purge valve on top, meaning its for a NA car usually.

The connection is needed to draw fumes from the cannister into the motor, and bring fresh air from in underneath.

Good question about where you put that single line. As theres no boost pressure to worry about, id say hook it up to the plenum... someone correct me if im wrong, i haven't worked on a non turbo car in like a decade :D

Edited by GeeTR

My car's a gts-t, which is what got me worried. I suspect this canister is some cheapy, and that if it doesn't have a valve built in then it's letting boost in. The tank always seems to have a lot of pressure when I open it, and i sometimes get weird blow off valve type sounds from the guard so it's time to get hold of a stock one and put things right again...

  • 3 years later...

the top fitting on my canister has been melted off with a lighter. it looks as tho this is one of the two that goes to the manifold, was just hoping it wasnt the one that vents back to the fuel tank. this could be a reason that my engine is running so rich...

Hi,

I've seen a post on here before about this but I can't find it anywhere after doing numerous searches :) So ill just ask again :D

What I wanted to know is how do I get rid of or re-rout that charcoal canister thing in front passenger side of the engine bay. If anyone knows how to do this or even know what im talkin about if you could help me out it would be great thanks.

Cheers

If you want to do this to get more power don't waste your time. People used to do this back in the days of 186's and 202's. It made a difference on these cars cos the 202 or 3.3L as some would call it, had only 101kw at the flywheel.

If you want more power get a bigger turbo.

If you absolutely must do this then just block the vac lines to the manifold and leave the fuel purge line just hanging there. Expect to smell fuel vapours in the cabin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...