Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 R33 GTST 4dr Manual M spec

18" Black Racing wheels

Apexi Muffler

Blitz BOV

HKS turbo timer (worth over $400!)

lowered king springs

$14,500ono

Car is in faultless condition, you wont find a 4dr in better nick. It

has just clicked over 100,000kms and includes RWC and registration

I'm located in melbourne, and dont hesitate to call if you have any queries

or wish to view the vehicle

Phone:

After Hours: 0407 852 136

Business Hours: 0409 177 467

Email: [email protected]

Cheers

Craig

post-9000-1131444398.jpg

Edited by cnic82
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94072-r33-gtst-4dr-mspec-manual/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...