Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi peoples

Now this is really f&*$^*n pissing me off. I’ve got an rb20det in a 180sx. I can drive the car fine makes boost well and then bam at 6000rpm I loose all boost as in it’s running 0 psi. At first I thought it was my wastegate cause I bought a cheap imitation off the net, but then I changed that to a genuine Tial wastegate and still the same. For the love of god guys I got spanked by an xr6 he handed me my own arse and all I could do was hang my head in shame!!!! What could possibly causing this huge lose in power. Well the cars got all the normal GFB like fuel pump, injectors, AVCR, ECU, fmin, zorst, but where it might be getting let down is the turbo, ive got one of those cheap ebay copy xs-power turbos, I got it balanced when I baught It and all, could that be the problem?? Please help, please. I don’t care how stupid it may sound tell me what you think it could be.

Waiting in anticipation

Anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94219-no-pwer-past-6000rpm-rb20det/
Share on other sites

when does your boost cut out normally? before it started at 6000

It would go right up to redline no problem. the bastard used to fishtale into second and step out going into third now nothing. The rev limit is set up at 7800rpm and it would hold boost the whole time thats on standard 8psi setting a on 14psi and setting b on 18psi.

now goes up to 8psi then at around 6000rpm (probably colser to 5500rpm) just falls flat on it's face

Cheers

anthony

What were you doing when all this happened? Even crap turbos wouldn't just suddenly dump all boost.

Dunno one day power next no power.

i thought it's cause it took it drifting but even after takin it driftin it was fine then a couple of weeks later it all fell to shit.

Cheers

anthony

your going to need to go into more detail if you want us to debug it over the forums. failing that maybe take it a to a real machanic and take them for a drive in it or get them drive, sometimes its much easier.

so you drive along boost is normal rising until it hits target boost and then at 6000rpm it goes from say 12psi to 0psi and you have no boost at all? is that correct? does this happen every time or once every now and then? does it happen over and over on the same drive / test run or is it just when it feels like. when it does work "ok" does it stay at 12psi and keep that until redline ok?

do you have any pops, noises, bangs, kabooms, smoke, whines?

are you seeing any oil around the intake components, bov seal, cooler piping areas, throttlebody join up pipe?

what boost controller and wastegate pressure spring are you using

when did it last work "ok"? whats changed since then?

nevermind just read avcr, what does it display when the problem happens?

when you MONITOR and choose BOOST and do graph mode does it actually show the manifold pressure taper off to 0psi past 6000rpm or are you just exaggreating it?

have u tried bypassing the avcr and running direct of the actuator (int gate) or the external gate spring only. does the same problem when you do this? if so that would rule out the avcr being stupid

nevermind just read avcr, what does it display when the problem happens?

when you MONITOR and choose BOOST and do graph mode does it actually show the manifold pressure taper off to 0psi past 6000rpm or are you just exaggreating it?

have u tried bypassing the avcr and running direct of the actuator (int gate) or the external gate spring only. does the same problem when you do this? if so that would rule out the avcr being stupid

I took it to my tuner he took it for a drive and said it seems to be the waste gate cause it looks like it's just stayin open past 6000rpm (really bout 5500rpm) and that's why it' not makin any boost. so i then baught a new tial wastegate and put it on today and it's the same problem.

And i kid you not it says o psi on my boost gauge and the car seems to be goin backwards.

No strange noises nothin just 0 boost, it has me baffled. i just ran it on standard boost which is .8 bar and it goes up to 9psi and holds that to bout 6000rpm and then back down to 0.

i really really really wanna get this fixed it's just pissin me off now!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the replys guys

Anthony

odd problem to have. i got no idea. even if the spring was shagged you would still make some boost one would assume? have you checked cooler piping areas for leaks and/or signs of it coming loose? sounds like one of those could be leaking under pressure. is it always poast 6000rpm?

odd problem to have. i got no idea.  even if the spring was shagged you would still make some boost one would assume? have you checked cooler piping areas for leaks and/or signs of it coming loose? sounds like one of those could be leaking under pressure. is it always poast 6000rpm?

Yea always past 6000rpm like i said like a light switch it just goes down to 0 PSI

it doesn't seem to be leaking boost prior to that throughout the rev range.

Cheers

anthony

Can you hear the turbo spin up? And does it sound like it stops when the boost drops to nothing or is it still spining?

Dyno is your friend, get it on and have a listen/look to see whats happening in a controlled environment. If you have a leak it'll be easy to find if it's big enough to bleed off all boost. If your turbo is suddenly seizing you will hear it.

Edited by BHDave
Can you hear the turbo spin up? And does it sound like it stops when the boost drops to nothing or is it still spining?

Dyno is your friend, get it on and have a listen/look to see whats happening in a controlled environment. If you have a leak it'll be easy to find if it's big enough to bleed off all boost. If your turbo is suddenly seizing you will hear it.

It does'nt sound like the turbos seizing, and i cant really see any leaks

Cheers

anthony

Im going to have a stab..

Sounds like your wastegate is opening when the max boost is reached and then staying open?

Have you re tuned the avcr since you changed wastegates? Maybe do that. Or maybe they have plumbed it up wrong?

Im going to have a stab..

Sounds like your wastegate is opening when the max boost is reached and then staying open?

Have you re tuned the avcr since you changed wastegates? Maybe do that. Or maybe they have plumbed it up wrong?

Thats an idea but it was workin fine before with the exact same setup and now it's not.

do you think i should still check it??

Cheers

anthony

Well guys

I took the car to hitman and he didn't even put it on the dyno like i wanted him to he just took it for a drive cheked the BOV and he said check the cat it could be blocked, but how the f*^&k could the cat being blocked make 0 psi boost????

The car is not running on 0 psi like i thought ( by the way the boost cutting out is happening at 5200rpm and in higher gears it's less) it's actually running vacume

So much for the Dyno

Cheers

anthony

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope. The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head. To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy. I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.
    • Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.
    • It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you  might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)
    • OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)
    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
×
×
  • Create New...