What Rb30 Block Is This?

[[200]]

Hello,

Looking at buying a block very shortly for my conversion.

I have stumbled across this one;

Is this the 'ideal' block to look for?

Thanks,

Peter

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Okay could be a number of models,

Series 1 VL turbo block

Series 2 turbo or non turbo

Any series skyline block

It is good as the oil return and high pressure are already there, so from that point of view it is slightly better than doing some extra work. However some people believe the earlier holden blocks are better as they are cast from better grey iron, however I believe it is a myth!!!

[Space Goat]

as far as i know there was only the one rb30 block brought out by nissan... got any numbers??? it could be a vlturbo motor if its got the extra galeries drilled out for the turbo or maybe (not sure) could be out of one those m30 skylines they were twin cam (rb20) head but n/a

[Cubes]

The most important part of the rb30 block for our twin cam conversions I think is the lack of a machined surface to mount the tensioner on.

Looking at the front of the block you will see two drilled and tapped holes where the tenioner studs screw in to.

Both must have a flat machined surface. I believe its the series 1 blocks that don't have the right tensioner location machined flat.

I've got pics some where of what to look for.

Don't go off what car the motor came out of, these cars are old now and often than not you will find a series 1 with a series 2 motor but a series 2 with a series 1 motor.

[StockyMcStock]

i can vouch for what cubes said

[kudos.motorsports]

This is a genuine turbo block that was removed from an 1988 Holden Commodore BT-1. If it isn't the original engine from the vehicle I would be very suprised. Pictures are worth a thousand words so here's my essay

As you can see one stud needs to be drilled out in the second image.

[wiplash1]

Whats the best thing to do as I have a series one turbo block with the cast marks on the front not allowing easy pully insulation.?

Do I make up a plate for it od machine the cast marks off?

[Cubes]

Bigsully84,

That block is perfect.. As you can see the right stud hole has a flat machined area.

The blokes that don't have this simply have a hole with no flat machined area.

[[200]]

Bigsully84,

That block is perfect.. As you can see the right stud hole has a flat machined area.

The blokes that don't have this simply have a hole with no flat machined area.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

So it will be fine to use as an RB31DET conversion?

I am wanting to buy it but thought I would get advice from the people on here.

[StockyMcStock]

if you don't have the flat machined surface there you will have to do this:

which is really not a big deal at all, considering you've either bought the drill bit and tap yourself already, or you're getting a machine shop to do it. the main things to get on the block are the provisions for the oil and water lines, which are a bastard to tap yourself.

[aussie_tul]

When this is completed, How fast is it?

[wiplash1]

Cheers man. that one looks like it has a machined surface though?

[Cubes]

No it doesn't...

Have a look below the tensioner location....

The origional right tensioner has just a hole with no flat surface around it. The origional tensioner locations are to the left/right of the welsh plug.

[Scribble]

Would the belt be "too" close together if the tensioners were below where stocky has them? granted you have the machined surface?

Who runs this setup?

[StockyMcStock]

everyone with an RB25 or 26..... have you seen how close the standard tensioner and idler pulley come on the twin cam RB's? it's pretty much exactly what you'd get if you used the two pre-drilled tensioner locations on the RB30 block, on either side of the welsh plug there.

as far as being worried about the belt touching because it's too close together, that is pretty much a non-existent danger. if it's not enough that the OEM engine uses a timing belt setup which comes that close together without problems, consider how much the slack side of the belt (inlet cam side of the belt) would have to flop to touch the reciprocal side of the belt moving the opposite direction. a properly tensioned cam belt simply cannot move that much, even under extreme loads (giant cams on rapid RPM changes).

if i had a series 2 block to start with, i would have used the two lower tensioner locations for simplicity and cost reasons. as it was i had to do what the pictures show above, which is quite a good setup as far as i can determine.

[Scribble]

Well im sold!

[Craved]

i heard a rumor that the R31 R30's all have the series 2 blocks... can anyone confirm?

[Cubes]

It would explain why every R31 block i've seen at the wreckers were all suitable.

[Craved]

what kind of prices have the blocks been going for? have been offered one for $300 .. and a complete VL motor for $475 .. is this about normal?

[Cubes]

I paid $150 for a running motor that had the head ripped off and sold. At a wrecker.

I found the larger wreckers sold them for $200-$300, the smaller little wreckers only wanted $100-$150.

Mine came out of a arse ended VL wagon.