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As for shifting, I've got a C's short shifter, and it's great.

It's reduced the throw a LOT, and you can actually beat the synchros if you rip the gearstick hard enough.

What that actually means, is that you can move the gearstick faster than the gearbox can mechanically change gears... So if you slow it down a touch, you can actually find the perfect speed to shift gears, so that you're shifting as fast as the gearbox can mechanically shift...

Does that make sense?

here i was wondering how the hell you got that with stock turbo like rev210 is trying to get to... feel sheepish now.

That's a bril 60ft time for that amount of power mate.

If i can do that once i get boosted i'll faint.

lol

  Quote
Originally posted by R31Nismoid

here i was wondering how the hell you got that with stock turbo like rev210 is trying to get to...  feel sheepish now.

That's a bril 60ft time for that amount of power mate.

If i can do that once i get boosted i'll faint.

lol

hehehehehe... Yeah, unfortunately with RWDs, the more power you have, the worse power progression gets, and the harder it is to get a clean launch ;)

I could hit 2.0 60 footers all day with my other stock R33, but this one is a LOT harder to launch ;)

  Quote
Originally posted by Merli

Does that make sense?

mmm... not really :looney:

mine has a quick/short shifter in it too i know that ;)

but when you say as fast as the box, is that why i would get a crunch between 1st-2nd if i yank down mega hard/mega quick ?

cause that what happens sometimes !

goes in though so that means the clutch is in (doesn't it?)

As i've tried no clutch and it's impossible to get in

Hmmm okay.

Forget the shifter. The gearset in the gearbox and the synchros can only mechanically change gears so fast, right? Like you can't expect the gearbox to change gears in 0.001 seconds, it has a mechanical limit on how fast it will actually change from 1st or 2nd. If you try and get it to change gears faster than that, it will beat the synchros and CRUNCH.

What you're actually doing is asking the gearbox to change gears faster than it physically possibly can. It's impossible, so the gears hit each other and make a God-awful crunch.

So what you have to do is slow down the shift a tiiiiiiny bit until you find the speed where you pull your gearlever at a speed so that you're shifting just a tiny bit slower than the mechanical limit of the gearbox.

The gearbox doesn't like 'overselection' either.

The shift forks won't help you if you are one of those people who drive around with one hand resting on the gearstick at all times.

After a drag/race session its a good idea to chuck the gearbox oil and diff oil also.

  Quote
Originally posted by rev210

I gotta show you bastards with the big turbos what a stockie can do.

LOL true.

but then i'm only working with 9psi, same power figure as you.

just different curve.

  Quote
Originally posted by Merli

If you're wondering why my terminal speed is a little low for that power, it's because I ran 100% street trim. Not one iota of weight reduction. I ran with FULL stereo, subwoofer, about 40kgs of sound deadening, spare tyre and all interior trim and seats.

I've ordered some 245/50/16 NT555Rs for the two R32 GTR rims I have... I could have gone for those 275/40/17s, but I thought I'd trade a little width for more sidewall... I hope I made the right decision.

ice180: Last time I went to the drags, I tried loading up using the handbrake, and I promptly snapped my right driveshaft clean in half ;) I ain't gonna try that again in a hurry, cos I felt like the biggest dickhead having to be towed off in front of everybody :(

Andrew,

Once again, the same as me - FULL road trim.

Driven on the strip EXACTLY as it is on the street. Spare & jack, stereo, all seats/trim, pump fuel, legal rubber, the lot. I even make a point of having a full tank (for weight over the rear). Not quite 50-60kg of stereo/sound deadening though.

Yep mate you made the right choice :) 245/50/16's are the better option, more sidewall & all. I only want 275/40/17's so it looks all nice with 17's front & back ;) Plus I'll use them on the street.

Breakages suck the big one :( I felt for you when I heard about the shaft failure. Good story to tell the kiddies though :(

I have a 100hp wet kit, quite literally, sitting next to me... but I can't use it, nor can I turn up the boost past 1.2 bar until I get my internals done :)

Dave,

A 10! I think I need you to drive the car for that to happen. Plus have the Nitto's on.

A small shot of Nitrous (50hp) to help off the line would be nice. But like Andrew, I won't be doing anything like that until the internals & injectors are upgraded.

Enrico,

On dry straight road I use to get w/spin in 1 & 2 (occasionally 3rd) at anything up to 110km/h. Suspension mods (including pineapples) & good quality rubber has made a HUGE difference! I still get w/spin if the tyres aren't warm but once they are it rarely catches me out.

my R31 puts 190 to ground.. and only just spins at the top of first (6000rpm+)... and will skate violently in second when i shift it hard and just chirps other gears.

and that's on 215's and fairly hard front/rear shocks/springs.

no pineapples or anything like that.

No grip problems for me.

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