Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

All things going right i am going to run a low 13 in my gf's S14 with ecu remap, 3"CES exhaust,pod filter&partion, 15psi boost,optimax or ultimate with octane booster!

Has run 13.75@102@willowbank (exhaust,pod&boost) but i am going to try retread slicks, ecu remap &tiny bit more boost plus it's auto!

4doorz from Queensland just ran a 12 in his black 4dr R33. It was a 12.992@110.16mph with a 2.045 60ft time. Quite impressive considering the limited mods. Mods include FMIC, full 3in exhaust, Power FC, Pod filter with cold air box, 235/40 R18 Federal tyres at 25psi, DIY boost controller, Heavy Duty clutch. The rest is reportedly stock. Not a bad effort. I saw him run a 13.2 on the Wed night test and tune at Willowbank, then on the Saturday Test'n'Tune broke into the 12s. Not a bad effort. Not sure what boost he was running, he did tell me just can't remember.

Also ran 13.000@109.20mph, 1.988 60ft on the Saturday aswell.

I think a good result on such limited mods.

Geez the sau 1/4 times are a little slow! I would have though that with all the people on here someone would be doing a 11!

Don't get me wrong my sx only runs 13.75 but it's got stuff all mods. I mean I thought skylines were fast?? My mates auto 300zx with less mods than others in the list would be no3 on that list plus he ran more mph(116.5mph) with std turbos, std i/c's, std ecu other than speed cut removed & rev limiter 500rpm higher, 245/16 falken tyres grb & a few minor other mods. And this is in a heavy, unreliable, overheating piece of junk 300ZXTT !!!

Originally posted by giz01

I would have though that with all the people on here someone would be doing a 11!

You will find that their are alot more people in the 12's just that not everyone is aware of the thread or has PM'd me there details.

Also I think their is only 1 GTR that has his time posted. With afew more R's the times will drop into the 11-12's.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, a few have asked questions, which I will try and answer....

When we go to the circuit I stick on a set of R tyres, Yoko A0323R's to be precise. While I have the car jacked up to change the wheels over, I crank on 1.5 degrees more negative camber (total 2.5 degrees) on the front. I also add 1.5 degrees to the rear (total 1.5 degrees). We use the Whiteline camber adjusting bushes for this, real easy.

The stabiliser bars are also adjustable, we run full soft on the rear for drags and the middle setting for circuit. Front we don't change much, unless the circuit is slippery raining or super grippy. So we basically tune the balance (oversteer/understeer) with the front bar. This is done while the car is jacket up changing the wheels. We use the Whiteline blade adjustable stabilisers bars for this, real easy.

Our shocks have adjustable bump and rebound rates, so all I do is add a bit more bump on the rear shock for the circuit. Rear rebound rate stays the same for drag or circuit as does the front bump and rebound. You guessed it we do this while it is jacked up as well.

I used to change the rear springs to harder ones for the circuit, but once we got over 600 bhp the softer (drag springs) power down better (less oversteer) and the shocks take care of the rest.

If we want to drift, I just whack the rear stabiliser bar on full hard, don't add any rear neg camber and back the front bar off to full soft and it slides like a 180.

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it only takes a couple of minutes extra per wheel over compared to just changing the tyres. Jacking it up and removing the wheels is always the hard work, shame not to do more while it is up there.

Hope that adds to the thread and answered a few questions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...