Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

All things going right i am going to run a low 13 in my gf's S14 with ecu remap, 3"CES exhaust,pod filter&partion, 15psi boost,optimax or ultimate with octane booster!

Has run 13.75@102@willowbank (exhaust,pod&boost) but i am going to try retread slicks, ecu remap &tiny bit more boost plus it's auto!

4doorz from Queensland just ran a 12 in his black 4dr R33. It was a [email protected] with a 2.045 60ft time. Quite impressive considering the limited mods. Mods include FMIC, full 3in exhaust, Power FC, Pod filter with cold air box, 235/40 R18 Federal tyres at 25psi, DIY boost controller, Heavy Duty clutch. The rest is reportedly stock. Not a bad effort. I saw him run a 13.2 on the Wed night test and tune at Willowbank, then on the Saturday Test'n'Tune broke into the 12s. Not a bad effort. Not sure what boost he was running, he did tell me just can't remember.

Also ran [email protected], 1.988 60ft on the Saturday aswell.

I think a good result on such limited mods.

Geez the sau 1/4 times are a little slow! I would have though that with all the people on here someone would be doing a 11!

Don't get me wrong my sx only runs 13.75 but it's got stuff all mods. I mean I thought skylines were fast?? My mates auto 300zx with less mods than others in the list would be no3 on that list plus he ran more mph(116.5mph) with std turbos, std i/c's, std ecu other than speed cut removed & rev limiter 500rpm higher, 245/16 falken tyres grb & a few minor other mods. And this is in a heavy, unreliable, overheating piece of junk 300ZXTT !!!

Originally posted by giz01

I would have though that with all the people on here someone would be doing a 11!

You will find that their are alot more people in the 12's just that not everyone is aware of the thread or has PM'd me there details.

Also I think their is only 1 GTR that has his time posted. With afew more R's the times will drop into the 11-12's.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, a few have asked questions, which I will try and answer....

When we go to the circuit I stick on a set of R tyres, Yoko A0323R's to be precise. While I have the car jacked up to change the wheels over, I crank on 1.5 degrees more negative camber (total 2.5 degrees) on the front. I also add 1.5 degrees to the rear (total 1.5 degrees). We use the Whiteline camber adjusting bushes for this, real easy.

The stabiliser bars are also adjustable, we run full soft on the rear for drags and the middle setting for circuit. Front we don't change much, unless the circuit is slippery raining or super grippy. So we basically tune the balance (oversteer/understeer) with the front bar. This is done while the car is jacket up changing the wheels. We use the Whiteline blade adjustable stabilisers bars for this, real easy.

Our shocks have adjustable bump and rebound rates, so all I do is add a bit more bump on the rear shock for the circuit. Rear rebound rate stays the same for drag or circuit as does the front bump and rebound. You guessed it we do this while it is jacked up as well.

I used to change the rear springs to harder ones for the circuit, but once we got over 600 bhp the softer (drag springs) power down better (less oversteer) and the shocks take care of the rest.

If we want to drift, I just whack the rear stabiliser bar on full hard, don't add any rear neg camber and back the front bar off to full soft and it slides like a 180.

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it only takes a couple of minutes extra per wheel over compared to just changing the tyres. Jacking it up and removing the wheels is always the hard work, shame not to do more while it is up there.

Hope that adds to the thread and answered a few questions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
    • Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.
    • It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better.  f**k I should get into advertising.  
    • Careful with posts like that around here without the flame suit on @cobo_11! 😂😂 My 330i journal is on here too. That car was so good and super reliable. We still have a 130i in the family which is almost identical to the 330i and easier to find in manual. It has also been almost faultless over the 6 or so years in the family.  I used to want an M car a lot more than I do now but if I'm honest and without trying to sound like a wanker, I can get such good performance and handling out of my 335 without needing to worry about all the crap that goes along with M car ownership. I don't need to worry about my bearings or subframe issues or the cost of replacing brakes or suspension or whether it has been impeccably maintained. And I can leave it places and not get upset when it's always filthy.
×
×
  • Create New...