Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Buy Tolulene In Perth

Steve

By Steve,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Rev210, no I dont have 33 timing maps.

To reset the ecu, I just used to disconnect the battery and wait for the interior light to fade compeletly. Then reconnect and take your car for a thrash :P NB, its always good to warm your car up before doing a reset, so when you do go for a spin, you arent thrashing a cold engine.

and for those intereseted, I just bought 20L drum or tolulene from Westfuels, 543? Abernathy rd kewdale for $66, works out at $3.30 per litre.

KeeFy Mentor

KeeFy

Posted
Posted

Just wondering steve.. roughly how long would it take? Impul, i heard the footbrake method dosn't really work. But i guess it'll make sense as it's draining out the battery by supplying voltage to the rear brakelights.

AD4M Proficient

AD4M

Posted
Posted

you obviously dont understand electronics then, most circutry contains capacitors. Capcacitors store power the same way a batery does. a few seconds without a battery conected wont rest much except yor radios memory and clock.

by putting ya foot on the brake it creats a circut and drains all available power.

I use this method and it works every time

KeeFy Mentor

KeeFy

Posted
Posted

Hrmm? Capacitors? To keep the hold enough current to keep the clocks and all running for about an hr? Woouldn't that take a lot? To drain a capacitor, u need to short it to ground or something right? So pressing the brake pedal connects it straight to ground? Capacitors usually are used to regulate power, it does store a charge... uh... i dunno, all those years of studying electronics in school and i still don't know shit about them. Hahaha. I'm just a dumbass. :P

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you obviously dont understand electronics then, most circutry contains capacitors. Capcacitors store power the same way a batery does. a few seconds without a battery conected wont rest much except yor radios memory and clock.

by putting ya foot on the brake it creats a circut and drains all available power.

I use this method and it works every time

LOL, and by having an interior (or the boot light on for R33) it does the same thing, when the light dies, the power is gone.

I used this method and it has worked every time.

You may enjoy playing with your brake pedal, but there are easier ways that are just as effective.

SideWaysChef Collaborator

SideWaysChef

Posted
Posted
Rev210, no I dont have 33 timing maps.

To reset the ecu, I just used to disconnect the battery and wait for the interior light to fade compeletly.  Then reconnect and take your car for a thrash :)  NB, its always good to warm your car up before doing a reset, so when you do go for a spin, you arent thrashing a cold engine.

and for those intereseted, I just bought 20L drum or tolulene from Westfuels, 543? Abernathy rd kewdale for $66, works out at $3.30 per litre.

thanks for that handy bit of information

i have been hunting around for a couple of days for the stuff

is good to know it is just up the road from me

Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
Posted
you obviously dont understand electronics then, most circutry contains capacitors. Capcacitors store power the same way a batery does. a few seconds without a battery conected wont rest much except yor radios memory and clock.

by putting ya foot on the brake it creats a circut and drains all available power.

I use this method and it works every time

What steve said ^^

I understand a little of electronics mate - If you break the circuit to the battery ie - taking the earth away then how will pressing the brake pedal do anything? If the circuit isn't complete how can a current be drawn? The capacitors wouldn't take long to stop holding charge considering it isn't really that high a voltage that runs in the car yeh?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...