Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

After confusion about what I can and cannot have with alarms, i emailed my insurance broker - just cars - to find out the real story. I found what they had to say was quite interesting. Read on if you please....

Hi Steve,

Apologies if there was some confusion in our initial reply. I'll attempt to answer your query as best I can.

First of all, unless you have specifically been advised otherwise, we never actually require an alarm to be fitted to a vehicle as a policy condition. It would invariably be in the best interests of your vehicle's security to have one, but it's something we don't formally require. As such, we would not deny a theft claim on grounds of the particular model / specification of an alarm you had fitted alone.

Many of our policies DO require the fitment of an Australian Standards 2 point engine immobiliser (or better) to be fitted to the vehicle for it to be covered in the event of a theft claim. If this requirement applies to you, it will be listed under the 'Endorsements' section of your quote, or the operator would have advised you if you spoke to us over the phone.

If we have advised you that an immobiliser is required for your car to be covered in the event of a theft claim, an alarm alone will NOT suffice. This would be different though if the alarm also included an engine immobiliser, and that immobiliser conformed to our required standard of covering at least 2 points.

The only immobiliser requirement we have is as Matt previously stated; it has to be an Australian Standard 2 point and has to immobilise at least 2 parts of the car (e.g. fuel pump & ignition). We don't at present require blackwiring so this isn't something we would take into consideration.

I hope this has been of some assistance. If you have any further queries please feel free to e-mail us again or if you prefer, speak to one of our Motor Specialists directly on 13 13 26.

We are open between 8am and 8pm Monday to Friday, 8.45am to 5pm Saturday and 10am to 3pm Sunday, Eastern Daylight Savings Time.

Regards,

James Marks

eBusiness Specialist

JUST CAR INSURANCE

www.justcarinsurance.com.au

13 13 26

....So, get a 2 point immob and your fine......

Cheers,

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94714-justcar-insurance-and-alarm-policy/
Share on other sites

A the end of the day, 1 thing for sure, i'd still install a proper alarm and immobiliser. Rather than having to pay for the excess when it's stolen, and the hassel of finding a new car etc etc. It's best to install it, regardless of the insurance needing it or not. Don't you think? :D

  • 1 month later...

Just cars have always said - 2 point immobiliser - they never say you need an alarm, although make sure you get it listed on your policy..

anything not listed.. doesn't exist.. also if you got it installed, keep the proof - e.g. receipt..

they are also not fussed who installs it. a lot of people seem to beleive that it has to be installed by a professional (ie workshop) and presented with receipts etc....i emailed them and they told me they arent fussed.

I feel safer with an alarm. Particularly when your car is targeted outside your house. You hear it for a few seconds, and u run out with a baseball bat. Otherwise they have the whole night to mobilise the car (its easy to bypass pump, and ignition aint too hard either), and drive away :D

they are also not fussed who installs it. a lot of people seem to beleive that it has to be installed by a professional (ie workshop) and presented with receipts etc....i emailed them and they told me they arent fussed.

are you sure about that? All companys i have been with required that they be installed by a licenced installer.

are you sure about that? All companys i have been with required that they be installed by a licenced installer.

That's what I thought.

When i got my immobilizer installed, the guy asked me what insurance company i was with, and he said filled out the warranty details and stuff.

(I'm with JustCar).

depends on the insuarnce company. just cars are a mixed bag. they do require an aust stds immobilser as part of the policy. but I usually do alarms as they make a bit more noise than a 'stay put' device.

that said whoever does it needs to hide the thing. no point spending $2-300 on one so I can come by and remove it in 30 secs. it takes me 5-10 minutes to get at my own alarm installs...

HI Michael,

Thanks for your enquiry.

We do not require an immobiliser to be fitted by an accredited workshop or fitter, as long as the immobiliser is of the current Australian Standard's and you can provide proof that it was installed (i.e receipts, photo etc.), you will have no problems should you have to make a claim.

Regards,

Matt Pugliese

eBusiness Specialist

Just Car Insurance

www.justcarinsurance.com.au

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome.  800hp should be a bit of weekend fun!
    • I'm going with "Just run two gates". Fix the problem conclusively. It's the only way you'd ever truly know, right?. This is all pretty much splitting hairs. Even the extreme example where it takes two whole seconds at 100kmh or something sounds monstrously dubious. And anyway, when you're punching the throttle when you 'need' this power, you aren't at 2800rpm in the wrong gear. Test it at 5600rpm in 3rd gear, when you're traction limited punching out of a sweeper. Much difference there when you account for traction?
    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...