Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The thing that bothers me when looking at the dyno print out is that the power is already rolling off before the car even hits max boost. And it seems to take forever to hit it. It may be a whole different story on the street as the settings on the dyno may not load the car up like on the street.

Something else to consider is there is no shootout data on your printout and so (i assume) no correction. In most cases correction pushes the figure up. For example, an 8 degree difference in ambient and inlet temp will give a 3-4% increase in the figure shown on the printout. and thats only one correction.

wow.. 19psi for only 245rwkw..

Hows it feel to drive?

19psi and 245rwkwk.. :( Maybe the dyno is conservative?

The rb turbine is a .6 something, there's no listed specs but thats what they apparently measure up as, the VG30/R34 turbine housings are a .7 something.

Dynos are a good tuning tool only. Its hard to compare dynos and dynos

Examples.

1) Barometer readings and temp readings give corrections readings. All increase or decrease your rwkw. Put in a low barometer reading and your rwkw goes up. My dyno operator barometer was way out, like 980 on the barometer. My figures where always high, 207/215 rwkw (stock turbo) 220rwkw (2530. no PFC).

2

) Ran my car on dyno, only 225rwkw when i ran 12.55@113mph. Car was very very strong as backed up by 1/4 times. Ran a guy with a 244rwkw from a well known Skyline shop, and it wasnt even close on a rolling run. We had about 4 rolling runs and even if he jumped me i could still peg him back and pass.

3) Dynoed with 2535 last night and only pushed 231rwkw (same as dyno no.1 but with fixed barometer, the operator reckons its costed 20rwkw) but car feels stronger than ever.

So my point is, judge by going in with figure A and coming out with B, you should judge your figures by this and not by other dynos. Really the best judge of power is 1/4.

The thing that bothers me when looking at the dyno print out is that the power is already rolling off before the car even hits max boost. And it seems to take forever to hit it. It may be a whole different story on the street as the settings on the dyno may not load the car up like on the street.

Something else to consider is there is no shootout data on your printout and so (i assume) no correction. In most cases correction pushes the figure up. For example, an 8 degree difference in ambient and inlet temp will give a 3-4% increase in the figure shown on the printout. and thats only one correction.

Yea, It was not run in shootout mode

Throw it on another well known dyno to see how it rates and what they think of the setup power/boost you are using.

Always good to grab a second opinion. :(

What EBC are you using? Its working damn well to hold 19psi.

Edited by Cubes
Throw it on another well known dyno to see how it rates and what they think of the setup power/boost you are using.

Always good to grab a second opinion. :(

What EBC are you using? Its working damn well to hold 19psi.

PFC Boost control kit :(

GunMetalR33, when i had my GTRS turbo installed and producing the same power as you on 1.3bar (19spi) i realised after a it got a bit colder i got slight knock. only way i detected this is on my dial display. i dont have a hand controller but i could not hear anything so it was not pinging. would only happen at high rpm. the tuner reduced the boost, richened it up and took timing back few degrees and it made 230@the wheels on 1.2 bar and does not ping anymore. I was told that my exhaust manifold (factory) was too restrictive for the power/airflow. i have just added cams and plenum and new manifold so i will see how it goes back on 19psi now. Ill try repost next wednesday when they retune and let you know.

inlet temps are satisfactory?

to head for 300rwkw with the standard 25 housing would have to be asking for a bit?

it sounds a little like, when cubes had the RB20 turbo on the 3L, the tuner had to remove a heap of timing up top because of the back pressure to prevent detonation.

Unsure if you know.

I dropped the VG30DET turbo on with its .7 something turbine housing. Instantly I was able to run 20-21degree's right the way through, I hadn't tweaked just bumped it up a little, boost is the same.

Up from 15-16 degree's its quite a bit.

i dont have a hand controller but i could not hear anything so it was not pinging.

if the light was going off, it was most certainly.

its the ping/detonation that you dont hear thats the problem.

if you can hear it... it could well be too late

Unsure if you know.

I dropped the VG30DET turbo on with its .7 something turbine housing. Instantly I was able to run 20-21degree's right the way through, I hadn't tweaked just bumped it up a little, boost is the same.

Up from 15-16 degree's its quite a bit.

Sounds good,

What cost would I be looking at if I was to put the vg30 zaust housing on the back of my GT30?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, not sure how active SAU is anymore but will ask away anyways. Just wanted to get some experience on the 2008 model GTR CBA model.  I've hit that age in my life (43) where I'm like fk it time to get my dream (midlife crisis) car. Looking at importing one in and seeing if these can be reliable if the main flaws are fixed up. Plan is to keep money aside to do the following straight off the bat to future proof it: * install a stage 1 rebuilt trans with all new bits and pieces.  * install a new Bellhousing from the later model GTRs. Or potentially an upgraded stronger version like MAD or ATR. Besides the above two things and typical maintenance items anything else you'd recommend doing.   Been speaking to a few people and the engine on these are very reliable apparently. But keen on the view of the community here. Hoping to find a nice grade 4.5 with low mileage in Grey. I'd go black but swirls too easy. Look forward to your responses and feedback. Cheers    
    • Do Alan and Keith work on Skylines now? I remember buying stuff from them when I owned my Ralliart Lancer a few moons ago. Definitely genuine guys and be excellent if they dealt with the skyline platform as well.
    • Hey all, I'm Gaston from Sydney's West.  I was a member on here when I was a younger lad and owned a mint R33 GTS-T. Ended up selling it and getting married having kids (yadda yadda) we all know how the story goes. Now I'm back with the intention to get my midlife crisis (dream) car ... a R35 GTR.  You'll see me about asking questions and searching the forums. Good to be back and can't wait to get back an Import again.
    • I have to put something here in order to post the photos. From what I could gather there's more enthusiasm for modified cars now than there has been for years. There were probably more younger people there than older (me included lol) which was a good sign.  It did seem like the record least amount of representation of the 90's era hero cars on display though. Like maybe one or two examples of S-chassis Nissans, and maybe 3 or 4 R-chassis. By comparison there were a lot of Civics from that era but in all there were about 10 - 12 EG/EK Civic Type R.  Euro exotics are always there in large numbers, led by Liberty Walk...... say what you will about kids using markers to scribble on a Ferrari F40, it did seem like a stunt to infuriate Ferrari enthusiasts, or Ferrari itself. I wonder if there's something more to it. Either way LBWK have done some heinous things to a Lamborghini Miura this time. They should stop now.
    • Engines and drivelines are not war stoppers for me mate, busted arse bodies and un-obtainium parts and panels are though Both cheap Brumbies I looked at had trashed tubs and a fair bit of rust
×
×
  • Create New...