Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The thing that bothers me when looking at the dyno print out is that the power is already rolling off before the car even hits max boost. And it seems to take forever to hit it. It may be a whole different story on the street as the settings on the dyno may not load the car up like on the street.

Something else to consider is there is no shootout data on your printout and so (i assume) no correction. In most cases correction pushes the figure up. For example, an 8 degree difference in ambient and inlet temp will give a 3-4% increase in the figure shown on the printout. and thats only one correction.

wow.. 19psi for only 245rwkw..

Hows it feel to drive?

19psi and 245rwkwk.. :( Maybe the dyno is conservative?

The rb turbine is a .6 something, there's no listed specs but thats what they apparently measure up as, the VG30/R34 turbine housings are a .7 something.

Dynos are a good tuning tool only. Its hard to compare dynos and dynos

Examples.

1) Barometer readings and temp readings give corrections readings. All increase or decrease your rwkw. Put in a low barometer reading and your rwkw goes up. My dyno operator barometer was way out, like 980 on the barometer. My figures where always high, 207/215 rwkw (stock turbo) 220rwkw (2530. no PFC).

2

) Ran my car on dyno, only 225rwkw when i ran 12.55@113mph. Car was very very strong as backed up by 1/4 times. Ran a guy with a 244rwkw from a well known Skyline shop, and it wasnt even close on a rolling run. We had about 4 rolling runs and even if he jumped me i could still peg him back and pass.

3) Dynoed with 2535 last night and only pushed 231rwkw (same as dyno no.1 but with fixed barometer, the operator reckons its costed 20rwkw) but car feels stronger than ever.

So my point is, judge by going in with figure A and coming out with B, you should judge your figures by this and not by other dynos. Really the best judge of power is 1/4.

The thing that bothers me when looking at the dyno print out is that the power is already rolling off before the car even hits max boost. And it seems to take forever to hit it. It may be a whole different story on the street as the settings on the dyno may not load the car up like on the street.

Something else to consider is there is no shootout data on your printout and so (i assume) no correction. In most cases correction pushes the figure up. For example, an 8 degree difference in ambient and inlet temp will give a 3-4% increase in the figure shown on the printout. and thats only one correction.

Yea, It was not run in shootout mode

Throw it on another well known dyno to see how it rates and what they think of the setup power/boost you are using.

Always good to grab a second opinion. :(

What EBC are you using? Its working damn well to hold 19psi.

Edited by Cubes
Throw it on another well known dyno to see how it rates and what they think of the setup power/boost you are using.

Always good to grab a second opinion. :(

What EBC are you using? Its working damn well to hold 19psi.

PFC Boost control kit :(

GunMetalR33, when i had my GTRS turbo installed and producing the same power as you on 1.3bar (19spi) i realised after a it got a bit colder i got slight knock. only way i detected this is on my dial display. i dont have a hand controller but i could not hear anything so it was not pinging. would only happen at high rpm. the tuner reduced the boost, richened it up and took timing back few degrees and it made 230@the wheels on 1.2 bar and does not ping anymore. I was told that my exhaust manifold (factory) was too restrictive for the power/airflow. i have just added cams and plenum and new manifold so i will see how it goes back on 19psi now. Ill try repost next wednesday when they retune and let you know.

inlet temps are satisfactory?

to head for 300rwkw with the standard 25 housing would have to be asking for a bit?

it sounds a little like, when cubes had the RB20 turbo on the 3L, the tuner had to remove a heap of timing up top because of the back pressure to prevent detonation.

Unsure if you know.

I dropped the VG30DET turbo on with its .7 something turbine housing. Instantly I was able to run 20-21degree's right the way through, I hadn't tweaked just bumped it up a little, boost is the same.

Up from 15-16 degree's its quite a bit.

i dont have a hand controller but i could not hear anything so it was not pinging.

if the light was going off, it was most certainly.

its the ping/detonation that you dont hear thats the problem.

if you can hear it... it could well be too late

Unsure if you know.

I dropped the VG30DET turbo on with its .7 something turbine housing. Instantly I was able to run 20-21degree's right the way through, I hadn't tweaked just bumped it up a little, boost is the same.

Up from 15-16 degree's its quite a bit.

Sounds good,

What cost would I be looking at if I was to put the vg30 zaust housing on the back of my GT30?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
    • Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.
    • It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better.  f**k I should get into advertising.  
×
×
  • Create New...