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Checked the master cylinder resoivoir which has very little fluid in it.(92 r32gtst)

the pedal is super light and i need pressure back so i can drive it tomorrow to get a new clutch installed.

i found this tutorial at 10w40.com is it applicable?

Follow this procedure to properly bleed the hydraulic clutch which is similar to bleeding brakes.

1) Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

2) Put a clear plastic tube on the bleeder nipple and submerge the end of the tube in a jar with some clutch hydraulic fluid.

3) Slowly depress the clutch pedal.

4) SLIGHTLY loosen the bleeder nipple.

5) While fluid is traveling through the tube, tighten the bleeder BEFORE the pedal is fully depressed.

6) Release pedal.

Repeat procedure until you are certain:

A) No bubbles appear in the fluid stream.

B) The bleeder was opened after the clutch pedal started depressing and was closed before the pedal reached the bottom.

C) The master cylinder reservoir never uncovered the ports in the bottom.

Make sure the slave cylinder is tightly fastened to the transmission case and does not move when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Look for threaded adjustment rods in the slave cylinder and clutch pedal linkages that can be used to insure the clutch is fully released BEFORE the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

my car is low,will i be able to reach the slave /bleed valve without getting fully under the car?cheers.

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You can reach the slave cylinder just by reaching under the car (no need to jack up or take tyres off)... my car is stock suspension (r32 gtst) but i still think you'll be able to get access. If in doubt get a qualified mechanic to do it.

It's not really that difficult, especially if you've got a friend to push the clutch pedal for you. Bleed the master, then the slave.

Still, if your reservoir is low you'd be best to find out where the system is leaking and then replace as necessary - especially if you're going to the trouble of getting a new clutch.

Edited by Pablo

Be careful as the damper in the clutch line setup could cause problems. The is a small box located beside the chassis rail, it also has a bleeder nipple on it. You will most likely have to bleed it from there also. The person operating the pedal will need to use their hands because the pedal won't return by itself while bleeding. Don't attempt to do it yourself as you will cause problems.

Oh, and don't bleed the master unless you are replacing it.

and you dont really need to submerge the other end of the tube in fluid, just make sure you close the bleed nipple before the pedal is pulled back up again so air doesnt get sucked back in thru the nipple

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