Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppls,

A little while ago I ran a direct volt feed to my fuel pump.

I used a Jaycar 60amp relay.

My usual routine is to turn the key to the on positon, wait for the fuel pump to raise fuel pressure then auto turn off, I then start the car.

Occasionally the fuel pump stays on and keeps priming and priming and priming. :O

The only way to stop it is to pull the earth from the relay.

Is it possible the relay is some how getting stuck?

I run the std fuel pump volt feed through the relay then straight to the chassis as its earth.

Could this be the problem? Kind of like connecting a negative and positive without anything inbetween using some power?!? big sparks and not good. :O

I'm not that electrically minded so I really am not sure where to start looking?!?

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/
Share on other sites

Cubes, if you have a look inside a relay, it's a very simple device. It's unlikely that it will get stuck open. Relays do not need much power at all to trigger. Your ecu might still be supplying a small amount of power after priming is finished.

My advice would be to change the relay anyway, in the rare case that it is faulty. They're cheap anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1717982
Share on other sites

Space Ghost...

Great idea.. I'll give that a shot.. lol So simple.. :O

Next time it does it, I'll jump out with my trusty multimeter and measure the volts running from the ecu.

If it is small amounts as the MANWHORE has suggested then its resistor time.

If not, new relay. :O

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1718019
Share on other sites

90% of the time the relay works as its should.

Only occasionally it locks on, unsure if thats still possible with a fused relay?

I also observed the relay tends to leak voltage.. The constant feed from the battery see's 0.02v, even with the trigger feeds disconnected.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1718057
Share on other sites

I've seen them stick on and I've seem them fuse together but the latter is permanent.

It might just be the ECU though. Mine does a similar thing and it is wired in the stock manner. I didn't notice that it stayed on sometimes until I put a GTR fuel pump in because I couldn't hear it before but now I can.

When I say similar... without the engine on it only primes for about 2-3 seconds but it's when it's started that it can go on and on or not depending on it's mood.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1719740
Share on other sites

i too have since similar results since putting a bnr33 pump in my gtst + powerfc. normally when it first starts the pump runs flat out even at idle, sometimes the only way to make it stop is to tap the accel pedal and the revs jump a tiny bit then back down again and the pump goes off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1720586
Share on other sites

Interestering...

Since I fitted the AP PowerFC the fuel pump constantly runs on high, prior it would run on low at idle then once you touch the accelerator it would run on high.

All though prior to the wiring mod I never had it get stuck on while priming.. Only since after the wiring mod.

Which makes me suspect the relay, or a small amount of voltage still passing that is activating the relay.

The wiring mod was definitely worth wile.. Its much louder as it sounds like its spinning so much harder, it also no longer vibrates the floor pan causing it to be noisy in the car. Now you can only hear the buzz/surge/bubble or what ever type sound it is from the outside once the fuel gets really warm on a hot day with little airflow movement.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1720608
Share on other sites

It should be setup something like this.

85 (-12V GND from ECU fuel pump terminal)

86 (+12V IGN switched)

87 (+12V to the fuel pump terminal)

30 (+12V supply from battery with fuse/fusable link)

So what will happen is, when the ecu switches the pump on (nissan usually ground relay for pump) it switches the low current coil in the relay, allowing high current from battery from pin 30 on the relay through to terminal pin 87 into the pump.

when the ecu turns the pump off (opens pin 85) the relay will open and stop pumping fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1721951
Share on other sites

you need to get a diode protected relay or install a diode in the earth wire on the relay that will stop the relay from engaging they require milli amps to engage thats the beauty of a relay little current to trigger put a relay on it and woohoo your fixed unless your relay is shgged in the contacts catchya !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1724906
Share on other sites

I hope you sort out your electrical gremlins ASAP.

The idea of the pump time out is in case of accident, you don't want fuel pumping everywhere even though the engine may have stopped.

If you've had an engine fire fed on 50psi fuel, you'd have the fear believe me.

Regards.

Indeed, the thought is scary. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1725137
Share on other sites

60amp is a big relay for a fuel pump. The 044's only pull about 15-20amps max.I'm running a 40amp on mine as i had one lying around.

I've noticed that the bigger amp fuses (EDIT Should have said relay here but i had fuses on the brain) have a diode built in (typically 30amp up) as mentioned by SKYBEE.

Something else worth considering is the way the relay is mounted. A 60amp relay has a (relatively) heavy set of contacts. If it isn't mounted upright they can stick easily due to gravity.

I've seen this problem with the factory relays located next to the ecu in the footwell as they were mounted upside down. Turned them 90 degrees and the problem went away.

Edited by BHDave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1726273
Share on other sites

relays are sprung so any way they go doesnt matter when not in use tehy wont fall down unless spring has sprung its last spring :D cheaper relays cheaper springs cant beat the bosch 150 relay so many uses so versitile even has a lug so you can screw it down

thast my experianc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95019-relays/#findComment-1736214
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, not sure how active SAU is anymore but will ask away anyways. Just wanted to get some experience on the 2008 model GTR CBA model.  I've hit that age in my life (43) where I'm like fk it time to get my dream (midlife crisis) car. Looking at importing one in and seeing if these can be reliable if the main flaws are fixed up. Plan is to keep money aside to do the following straight off the bat to future proof it: * install a stage 1 rebuilt trans with all new bits and pieces.  * install a new Bellhousing from the later model GTRs. Or potentially an upgraded stronger version like MAD or ATR. Besides the above two things and typical maintenance items anything else you'd recommend doing.   Been speaking to a few people and the engine on these are very reliable apparently. But keen on the view of the community here. Hoping to find a nice grade 4.5 with low mileage in Grey. I'd go black but swirls too easy. Look forward to your responses and feedback. Cheers    
    • Do Alan and Keith work on Skylines now? I remember buying stuff from them when I owned my Ralliart Lancer a few moons ago. Definitely genuine guys and be excellent if they dealt with the skyline platform as well.
    • Hey all, I'm Gaston from Sydney's West.  I was a member on here when I was a younger lad and owned a mint R33 GTS-T. Ended up selling it and getting married having kids (yadda yadda) we all know how the story goes. Now I'm back with the intention to get my midlife crisis (dream) car ... a R35 GTR.  You'll see me about asking questions and searching the forums. Good to be back and can't wait to get back an Import again.
    • I have to put something here in order to post the photos. From what I could gather there's more enthusiasm for modified cars now than there has been for years. There were probably more younger people there than older (me included lol) which was a good sign.  It did seem like the record least amount of representation of the 90's era hero cars on display though. Like maybe one or two examples of S-chassis Nissans, and maybe 3 or 4 R-chassis. By comparison there were a lot of Civics from that era but in all there were about 10 - 12 EG/EK Civic Type R.  Euro exotics are always there in large numbers, led by Liberty Walk...... say what you will about kids using markers to scribble on a Ferrari F40, it did seem like a stunt to infuriate Ferrari enthusiasts, or Ferrari itself. I wonder if there's something more to it. Either way LBWK have done some heinous things to a Lamborghini Miura this time. They should stop now.
    • Engines and drivelines are not war stoppers for me mate, busted arse bodies and un-obtainium parts and panels are though Both cheap Brumbies I looked at had trashed tubs and a fair bit of rust
×
×
  • Create New...