Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I start the ball rolling.......

Supra TT (JDM spec) - ~ high 13's to flat 14's

R32 GT-R - low 13's, sneak a high 12

R33 GTS25t - mid/low 14's

*Note* - All figures rough ball park. I'm sure there'll be plenty of posts to come with......."What! That's B/S I've seen my mates brothers sisters uncle do a 10.89 on his gtech dead stock!"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-143890
Share on other sites

Think about it...

2 sec's is a long time especially when your maxing 4th gear..... If your in your Vtec and are racing a gts-t that is 2 sec's in front of you, it will look like they are a real long way away...

Cheers

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-145135
Share on other sites

Type R integra is bloody quick. Only a yank is dumb enough to drag race em, but they are super quick around a track.

Eg, in bathurst hillclimb last year, I was doing .31 in the gts-t, a stock integra was doing .33s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-145246
Share on other sites

Losing a drag race by 2 seconds is a HUGE gap! That's like being lapped a few times in a circuit race.

.1 of a second is say ~1 car length over 400m. Note - this is a very rough guide. So don't bloody start all you nit pickers who like to apply the laws of every known theory! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9507-stats/#findComment-151393
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
    • I wonder if these would be discounted when they have their big sales? because if so would be a great time to actually buy them could even end up cheaper than buying from quickjack in the end.
    • Which grit sand paper did you use on the pulley btw? Thought I'd ask so I don't scratch it up too much
×
×
  • Create New...