Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't know if anyone else is experiencing the following but I've noticed that while using OE100, during days where the ambient temperature is above 28C, I get erratic idle ( hunting and popping ) once at operating temp. Otherwise it drives well. ( on 2nd tank of OE100 ). Got to fill up today so I'm going back to Optimax 98 to see if anything changes.

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 168
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

http://www.racefuels.com.au/dynoDetail.asp?ID=59

Interesting read. (Sorry if it has been linked already somewhere)

Tests on an Integra Type R 1.8L showed :

Ultimate 98 - 135rwkw

Optimax - 133rwkw

Optimax Extreme - 139rwkw

Elf race fuel - 140rwkw

"Assuming that a fuel has reasonable octane ratings (say min 98 RON) then the lighter the fuel (density) the greater the performance. Ethanol is quite a dense petroleum product and is unlikely to greatly improve performance, in fact in all our testing in adding 5% and 10% ethanol to all the fuels tested we saw no performance increase, if anything it acted as a detonation masking agent"

Edited by Beeble

as this fuel was covered in HPI i believe it was. I think they gained about 30kw + in a skyline running e10

The whole car was retuned with the ignition timing getting some serious cranking. The car gained 30kw from e10 and a tune. I'd say if you live near servos that have it, get it tuned on it, it's great stuff.

"Shell Optimax Extreme is a new super-high octane fuel with a minimum octane rating of 100, the highest currently available at any Australian service station. Shell Optimax Extreme is formulated with 5% ethanol."

*cough* I think you'll find it is E5, if you care to read the article closely.

They used pump Optimax Extreme in this particular test, not Boost98 or E10.

Correct me if i'm wrong....

edit:

\/ \/ btw Kimbod i'm not advocating the use of this stuff, just reporting on what i found. I'll be sticking to "normal" 98RON and getting my car tuned as such.

I don't recall ever saying "lighter = more power". I have a basic undertanding of the priciples of combustion :D mleh.

And yes, i agree with what you're saying.

Edited by Beeble

I would be very surprised if anybody can tell the difference between 98 ron and 100ron on any given day.No two days have the same temps and also barimatric pressures.Research Octane Number is a fuels resistance to knocking and pinging. Motor Octane Number is a fuel"s drivability. It is a lower number than RON.Oil companies have agreed with the Fed Govt to increase the use of ethanol. Manildra is the main supplier of this . It is a byproduct of their wheat processing for the food industry.Mind you any fuel with ethanol should be cheaper to buy as it cost way less to produce and hasn't got the taxes and duties that crude oil has.The car companies don't want more than 10% because with the standard ecu this is all that they can guarentee won't hurt the motor or fuel systems. Ethanol tends to promote the absorbtion of water in the tank. this cause problems in lines and injectors.Nissan's with their ecu and sensors will adjust for the different fuel's rons.

A denser fuels gives more power , that's why Shell advertise it that way, but being denser tends to slightly richen up the mixture.Sorry Beeble lighter is not more power.Most of the threads here are too simplistic. Crude and it's distillation and the production of Gasoline is extremely complex We don't just use 1 crude at a time it is always a mixture of up to 5-6 different crudes so we can get different specs for Jet Fuel , Diesel ,etc. Also availability and what time of the year it is as specs change in summer and winter.Our dyno testing is carried out in climate contolled laboratory. The oil companies have special licences for all these specs. If We put out to market fuel that doesn't meet fed govt specs we would be in the shit.Shell extreme is basically as said here. 98 ron with 5% ethanol. I think you will find most companies will follow this soon. Also this helps boost ron with the removal of Benzene from 01/06

Edited by kimbod

If you check out the website I am sure it will answer any questions you have of Optimax Extreme.

www.100octane.com.au

Brief recap.....

It is a 5% ethanol based fuel (not 10%)

Ethanol is a natural product derived from sugar cane.

The small amount of ethanol will not hurt or dammage any part of your cars fuel system anymore than normal fuel does already.

Ethanol is an oxigen rich fuel around 30%

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...