Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys I've got a little project on the go and want to know if there are any difference between R31 Skyline and Pintara struts and brakes. The spring rate doesn't bother me (I'd assume they are different).

Are the brakes the same?

Is the strut tube diameter the same?

Is the strut length the same?

Can you get aftermarket shocks to fit, ie. Konis? (Konis are really all I'm worried about)

Are there any easy brake upgrades (ie bolt on) for these struts?

Rotor diameter and thickness?

For my project I've heard that the Skyline struts are pretty much what I need. The thing is I've been offered a Pintara for nothing from a mate so I'm trying to figure out if it's worth getting.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95158-pintaraskyline-struts-brake-qs/
Share on other sites

Are the brakes the same?

Is the strut tube diameter the same?

Is the strut length the same?

Can you get aftermarket shocks to fit, ie. Konis? (Konis are really all I'm worried about)

Are there any easy brake upgrades (ie bolt on) for these struts?

Rotor diameter and thickness?

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes (or I believe so - haven't checked for awhile, but be surprised if you can't)

Yes....well, anything can be done depending on $$$ (HR31 turbo brakes are a better option)

??? - don't have the data here, but not very big on the front.

Thanks heaps man.

The other thing is what is a good brake pad to use? (for these brakes) My project is a fairly light weight vehicle ~950kg and will mainly be used for track work and hill climbs etc. I used to use the old style metal kings but they aren't the same anymore.

Actually I've probably misled you on the 'upgrade' answer. Most people just chuck in a set of upgraded pads....EBC, etc - which is what i really meant by 'easy'. There are a couple of problems with going beyond that with the Oz spec R31 stock brake setup. One is that the stock caliper is the sliding head type which limits the caliper performance as well as the range of pads. The other is that the stock disc is the integral hub type (hub/disc are one piece) which (severely)limits options in terms of changing discs. Most people try to find a set of HR31 turbo struts + brakes because the hub and disc are separate items, so disc upgrade is fairly easy. The HR31 still uses a sliding head caliper, but it's much bigger and definately superior to the Oz R31 caliper. In addition, the caliper mounts on the HR31 struts are suitable for mounting R32/Z32 calipers, so that opens you up to a far superior brake setup as well as pad range.

The down-side is finding a set of HR31 struts, which is easier said than done.

KYB make a replacement (front) cartridge for the R31 3.0 . But if the Pintara is the same strut, then the cartridge is presumably suitable for the Pintara as well.

P/N is 365084

  • 3 weeks later...
dont quote me on this but iv herd that s13 suspension front and rear is a near direct bolt in for r31 not to shaw if its correct but if it is that opens up lots of options

Can anyone give me some more info on this? What are the differences between the s13 and r31 struts and do they bolt straight in in place of each other? Most importantly, are the lower mounts to the suspension arm the same?

Any replies would be very helpful, thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this thread is quite old, but I found it, it helped me, but I also wanted to add my experience and troubleshooting finds to the chat for others. I have not been able to open the rear hatch of my 97 Stagea for several months. Figured it had just really sealed itself up over the winter and I would just get to it eventually. Well that day was yesterday. Some time ago, I noticed my battery was going flat all the time. It was frustrating. Then one quiet night in the garage, I could hear and ever so slight humming / grinding noise coming from the back of the car. It was like a really quiet popping sound or something like sand in a very low speed blender. I took off the panels in the back and noticed the noise coming from the auto close motor, so I unplugged it and the noise stopped. And the auto close was disabled. Well, fast forward to yesterday, I tried all the tricks with power and fuse and lock and unlock and I still could open the damn hatch. So I took off the panels from the inside and found the auto lock had engaged and was stuck in close position. When plugging and unplugging the fuse, I could hear the relay clicking. So I plugged the autoclose motor back in, and the damn thing let go. And immediately started making that grinding sound again. This time, instead of just unplugging the motor, I pulled the fuse, thus depowering the relay entirely. I don't have the autoclose feature now, but at least I can open the boot and not have my battery being sucked dead all the time. Not sure what caused the motor to latch when it was unplugged from the system, but I am pretty sure it won't cause any more problems now.  If anyone has a lead on a new motor, please let me know. It's a cool feature that I would like to get back.  Hope this helps.
    • Lolololol maybe, man I hate this car. Lapsed judgement a respray and a new motor, when I should have just scrapped the lot when I had the chance. Farken.
    • So you reckon a few sweety something's whispered in her window and she'll behave for me? 😛
    • One of the first things i do when i buy a car is to change the in cabin filter, because no one ever does. There seems to be conflicting statements on the internet, does anyone know if a 97 r33 actually has one?
    • Thankyou! I'll add a pic of my Z for good measure! 😛
×
×
  • Create New...