Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

take out the spare wheel, rip out the plastic covering, fibreglass 1 sub in each corner of boot, make up a amp rack in the middle, done :D.

I have designs for a 12" side install sealed sub box too.

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

why 1 sub per amp?

2 subs per amp better... lower impedance more crunk foe ya system...

use 2 x 2ohm subs (Assuming they are Dual Voice Coils), run your monoblock at 1ohm.. a good 1kw RMS of power... considering the monoblock does 1 ohm stable...

thats more power than 2 subs running off 2 amps

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

Please do

it has a normal size one, like u would find in the engine bay of an commodore for example, also with rca'z what length is reccomended, i was thinking something about 12ft/4m is this right???

im running 4 gauge wiring into a distro block then thats going to each amp 1 monoblock and 1 4ch

system is 2 audiobahn 12z, kenwood 9152d monoblock, clarion 4ch, alpine type s splits for front and rear, and a pioneer audiovisual headunit

thanks

You can fit 'em in, but I would recomend to dump em for some 6.5 or whatever the factory size is as 6x9's are a good comprimise for getting bass without wanting a sub. You have 2 subs so I wouldn't worry about trying to fit 6x9's. If you do however you may need to bend/cut the parcel tray, which I definatley wouldn't recomend.

I'd runn 4g for each amp to a distro block, then 2 or 1g to the battery. Looks like you'll be getting some juice going into your system. Don't forget to fuse it correctly as close to the battery as possible.

ok, yeah ill prob go get a length of it and do that, as my amps are gonna be sitting on the sides of the boot

after spending a few hours working out measurements and all that stuff for my sub boxes, ive marked out everything in my boot, im gonna be making my sub boxes up next week as im going for my ps on monday so i wanna practice as much as possible

ill post pics up once the boot is carpeted

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure if you're being serious? I, and all the car people i know, ALWAYS use a torque wrench for wheel nuts. I assumed any car person, apart from tyre centre monkeys with rattle gun in hand, would do it properly.  Anyway, no further reply from me on this unless legit discussion from OP or his query so, over to you, knock yerself out.
    • I was wondering about this. I'll do some research.
    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
×
×
  • Create New...