Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Running a set of TEIN HR's on my 32 with killa results, very stiff they reduce body roll alot by themselves....i love em. Theyre a snap to adjust and feel great on the car

there hight and dampner adjustable right? if you dont mind me asking what did you pay for them i can get a new s13 set for $1500 does that sound right

My 20 cents worth;

Simplistially valved small bore, Japanese shock designed for billiard table smooth roads. Fitted with far too high spring rates for Australian conditions. Harsh ride and poor traction.

There are far better shocks and more suitable spring rates available at lower prices, check out the Group Buy thread for your particular Skyline model.

:) Cheers :)

HR's are just height adjustable.......i dont mind the ride but then again my cars being built for drift so they're pretty close to perfect. Thinking about upgrading to a ZEAL package with S.W.I.F.T springs, but il find more out about them. Sydney kid poses a point, and it all depends on what ur building it for, there are better shocks and springs for aussie road conditions to provide a better ride, but if ya like it stiff and bumpy then TEINS are great.

what others do you sugest are more suitible for ausie roads i dont neceserily want coilovers but im gonna drift the gazelle(i know its not a skyline but all the guys on the silnia forms are dumb as sh it) as well as have it as a daily so i want some thing versitile

Edited by b4gibbo

So ul definately need something realtively stiff for track work and knda soft for evryday use....give sydney kid a pm and ask, but my suggestion would be TEIN HA's instead of HRs, coz that way u get damper adjustable so u can just easily set it stiff wenu go out and smoother wen ur daily driving. Bit more expensive but well worth it, theres plenty of sus out there, im enjoying TEIN at the mo daily and drift.

So ul definately need something realtively stiff for track work and knda soft for evryday use....give sydney kid a pm and ask, but my suggestion would be TEIN HA's instead of HRs, coz that way u get damper adjustable so u can just easily set it stiff wenu go out and smoother wen ur daily driving. Bit more expensive but well worth it, theres plenty of sus out there, im enjoying TEIN at the mo daily and drift.

im running s13 tein's in my r30 the super street damper kit,and ive found them to be excellent .

Not too harsh on the street and trust me the roads around my area pretty damn average,at the same time a very nice setup for the both the strip and the track im more then happy :P

And theyre both height and damper adjustable.

im running s13 tein's in my r30 the super street  damper kit,and ive found them to be excellent.

A comparison between an R30 strut front end and a double wishbone Skyline is not particularly relevant. They are quite different animals.

My suggestion would be to use adjustable stabiliser bars rather than excessively high spring rates. That way you can tune the car for road or drift by adjusting the antiroll rates, much easier than changing springs and shocks.

This is a link to the R32GTST Group Buy, I believe it should answer most of your questions.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591

If you should require additional clarification please just ask.

:) cheers :)

Simplistially valved

I've heard you mention this a few times about japanese suspenison.

Care to elaborate on this? I'm just a bit curious about what aspects of suspension valving improve shock performance. (It's also a fairly broad statement don't you think...)

I'm curious about what differences there are in valving between say Tien Flex shocks and Bilstien shocks. And also if some of the more expensive japanese brands illeviate this problem. (after all, brands like Tien in Japan are considered the "budget" coilover shock)

Actually the brand of shocks I'm using at the moment are Quantum, which are some english brand, can't find much info on them, only that they cost alot more than Tiens new.

This was the only info i could find on them if you can read japanese...

http://www.nova-eng.co.jp/Part/QUANTUM/quantum-1.htm

sorry if im hijacking your thread mate!

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

yeah i have some adjustable sway bars on the way to reduse the s12 masive body roll but the stock suspenion is way worse than say r32 skyline suspension and i dont want super stiff shocks i want comfy rasponzive ride im looking into the super streets now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
×
×
  • Create New...