32gtr Oil Filter & Spark Plug

[Godzil_R]

hi all

can anyone tell me the oil filter and spark plug type for the r32 gtr(type=the model number so i can go buy replacement for a service)

this for mod=i did try search but couldn't find anything

thx all(in advance)

[Topaz]

Oil filter is Valvoline V04 equivilant to Repco Z145A

dpn't know spark plugs

[randominsanity73]

I bought a genuine nissan oil filter as it was only $8 or something....I bought NGK Platinum spark plugs from Repco and had them re-gapped to 0.8 as the old ones were standard NGK's at 0.75 / close enough!! Unfortunately they all come pre-gapped to 1.1 these days. Haven't had a problem with any of it on my R32 GTR.

[Topaz]

BTW my spark plugs are NGK Iridium...there was a group buy for these not long ago and they were $100 for the 6 to give you an idea of the price. But the Iridiums are one of the best replacement spark plugs

I don't actually know the gap of mine, but my next ones will definately be 0.8

[C yar]

gen oil filter is part number 15208-H8911AU & spark plug part number is 22401-58S16 which is a ngk PFR6A-11.

You can get these from any nissan dealer but if you live near me (alexander heights) i have 2 oil filters i can sell you as i no longer have a skyline.

[Godzil_R]

I bought a genuine nissan oil filter as it was only $8 or something....I bought NGK Platinum spark plugs from Repco and had them re-gapped to 0.8 as the old ones were standard NGK's at 0.75 / close enough!! Unfortunately they all come pre-gapped to 1.1 these days. Haven't had a problem with any of it on my R32 GTR.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

isn,t original gtr spark plug one at 1.1gap ?

[noise]

copper plugs are better then iridiums.

a lot of tuners wont even tune cars with iridiums in skylines because you get missfiring using standard coil packs.

[Godzil_R]

gen oil filter is part number 15208-H8911AU & spark plug part number is 22401-58S16 which is a ngk PFR6A-11.

You can get these from any nissan dealer but if you live near me (alexander heights) i have 2 oil filters i can sell you as i no longer have a skyline. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thx scott

[Godzil_R]

ngk irridium or ngk platium which is better for r32 gtr?

i assumed platium cos it cost more

pls help need service this weekend

[randominsanity73]

isn,t original gtr spark plug one at 1.1gap ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you run 1.1 the spark blows out all the time. I run the equivalent of stock boost for daily driving and 1.0 bar for high boost. I tried leaving them at 1.1 and it was just a joke, that's why I had mine re-gapped to be close to the old ones that were in it. Repco re-gap them while you wait it only takes a few minutes and they don't charge you anything for it.

[Godzil_R]

randominsanity73 thx great info,

but i just brought irridium one(on the box it say not to regap it due to the fine electrode)

anyone regap irridium plug b4?

how long do these plug last for standard factory boost gtr?

if i run on factory boost is it neccessory for regap?

[randominsanity73]

Sorry, I can't help you here as I have platinums. I know nothing about iridiums....Hopefully someone else can help you

Edited November 28, 2005 by randominsanity73

[rev210]

The best plugs to use are the far cheaper 'copper' plugs, granted platinum and irridium plugs are better material but, for what you get the money is better in your bank. When tuning your car this is even more important. Getting those maps right can in the process rapidly age the plugs due to the initial incorrect mixtures and timing. It's not unheard of to waste a set of plugs or two as you go through the process of setting up a tune.Due this with irridiums or platinums and your looking at increasing your tuning bill a fair whack. On a side note; if you drop a plug on hard ground even if it looks ok throw it away, another reason to avoid these plugs as the pain is alot less when you do.

Really Irridiums and platinums are a waste of money unless you fill the following conditions;

* You race and can justify the replacement cost of these plugs over copper for the slight advantage they have in a more reliable spark under great sustained heat stress, not that you will even notice this in any performance terms they are just slightly less likely to give out before you finish the race. You are going to replace them every meet in any case.

* You have left your low km engined car completely stock, will never run an octane booster or any other performance modification that may effect the tune state of the vehicle and hate having to change plugs. The irridium and platinum tend to stay cleaner for longer so you have less user intervention. Although for the cost you will be still out of pocket $$$ after traveling 100,000kms Vs copper plugs.

From memory NGK BCP serices in a heat range of 6 the BCPR series (R for resistor) if you are not running big ass boost or nitrous, although I know not to use these resistor plugs for nitrous from experience I am making the assumption that if you have enough extra combustion temperature from higher boost this rule would apply also. Happy to be corrected by a tuner who knows about this though.

( the plugs that end in ES-11's are just gapped to 1.1mm out of the box but can be used too ,just regapped).

Factory boost & rpm

= factory gap

Increase boost and or rpm

= decrease gap

Increase combustion heat ( eg power and rpm)

= lower heat number (NGK for example going from BCP6 to BCP7)

One other thing you might like to try is 'indexing' your plugs.

Make a line mark down the top of the white ceramic of the plug inline with the direction of the grounding strap (bit of metal over the top of the plug electrode that you close up to gap the plug).

When you put the plugs in you try to have the plugs turned so that the 'gap' faces in one uniform direction with the idea that there is an optimum position for the spark for best combustion.

A few wafer thin washers is all you need to achieve the effect as you don't want the plugs too tight or loose to acheive the position.

It is well documented that getting it right makes significantly more power

as it helps improve spark performance under high load.

I am going to post a thread on forced induction to see if there is any experience with the RB engines and indexing so we can save reinventing the wheel.