Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thank you for yet another informative answer there dezz.

As krzysiu said. FM is generally decent transmition but it's no where near as good as a digital transmition or direct conection. So you will never get as good quality which is unfortunate cause i also enjoy just listening to the radio a fair bit.

FM radio is about 2/3 of the quality of normal cd audio. The first thing you lose is the depth of the bass when you transmit in this manner. Basically the transmission leaves out bits.

All you have to do is increase the bass on your eq or whatever you use for that. Some head units can have different settings for radio and cd.

I was about to suggest that... all the head units i've come across require you to set the bass/mid/treble for radio and CD independantly.

Funnily enough, i've always found radio to be bassier than CD's!! The new HU in my Skyline is the same... just like my last car. Weird!

I think you will find its a bit like mp3, just more so. Mp3 compresses the data you cant hear, or your stereo cant produce. Radio is the same, just they keep going in to what you can here.

Technically mp3 still isnt as good as a cd, but it all comes down to the orginal recording anyway, and how good the system is at reproducing the sound.

JTS25T: Dunno man... my new Kenwood does it, and my old Kenwood in my Commodore did it. Kinda handy, cause FM radio has always been more bassier to me. (not as bad as AM radio though)

If FM radio is Frequency-Modulated, and high-pitch is in the upper range, and bass is in the lower... maybe the upper is being cut out a bit by the radio stations?

Also listening to music on air is free, and hence music quailty is also low!! Wont be your typical 128kbs..

Also since the waves travel further, the frequencies may also decrease in quailty.. not 2 sure on that..

  • 4 weeks later...

something that i remember from uni in regards to wireless transmission.

sound (music) is a whole spectrum of frequencies. bass is the lower range frequencies, treble is high.

Frequency modulation (or AM for that matter) allows transmission of this spectrum of frequencies over a single frequency (ie what you tune your radio to).

However to transmit the whole spectrum requires infinite power (not possible) so a compromise takes place. Hence why FM doesn't sound as good as CD.

  • 2 weeks later...

radio is up to 22khz range, whereas CD is 44khz.. which allows much more frequencies to be accurately transmitted in the spectrum. Usually that would mean that its the higher frequencies that you'd lose, so I guess there must be other explanations why you lose bass frequency... probably to do with bass requiring more power to send the lower wavelengths long distances??

Radio plays crap usually repeditive music anyhow :mellow:

They were talking about digital radio which would improve the quality, but they've been talking about that for 10 years and not much has advanced in that area.

I think some head units will try to recreate some of the bass lost in radio transmissions, which is why some headunits make the radio bassier than others... My alpine is a lot bassier on the radio than a cd, but so much so that it sounds like crap.

I also know, that all the Brisbane radio stations are shit too... especially the new morning crew on all B105, Triple M and Nova... All of them like to share with you every morning how ignorant they are and how cool it is to be a dumbshit...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...