Low Power For R32 Gts-t (dyno Graph Included)

[Lithius]

Hey there, finally got around to getting my little R32 Gts-t dynoed today but was a bit disappointed with the result. Here's whats done to it

Intercooler

Blitz Electronic DBC

Apexi Airpod

3" Turbo back Exhaust

High flow cat

Stock ECU

98Octane fuel

Was running 14 PSI on the EBC but according to the dyno the maximum it reached was 11. The guy seemed to think that the stock ECU might be preventing it from boosting any higher but i thought you guys might know if that were true or not, or whether I should be looking at something else. He also said the boost could possibly be leaking somewhere.

Anyway here's the dyno graph, sorry about the quality it was taken with a webcam. Max RWKW is 121.4, but I was expecting 140+ Is there any indication on the graph of something terribly wrong?

Edited November 19, 2005 by Lithius

[Lithius]

Bump, no ideas?

[grim32]

it doesnt seem to bad considering its a stock ecu, would see better results with a re-map or aftermarket ecu of some sort. my car with similar mods makes 135rwkw on 10psi but uses a wolf 3d.

[R31Nismoid]

sounds perfectly normal.

al dynos read differently.

if your ebc says 14 and the dyno days 11... there obviously is a problem with one of the two.

still power sounds around normal

[Nathan_G1]

Mines running 14 pound on stock ecu and injectors with VG30 turbo.....and my dyno verfied the boost accurately, but i dont have an electronic boost controller just the actuator adjustor

[ZILR-34]

quick question wheres a good place to get ur car dynoed in melbourne? and how much does it cost?

cheers

bill

[BHDave]

Whats with the dip at about 100k's? Big missfire?

If the dyno is saying you are running 11psi then i reckon your gauge is probably reading a bit high, My blitz dsbc reads very high.

Everything else looks good. Swap your plugs for a set of bcpr6es, wind in a bit more boost, set your base timing to about 16btdc and try it again.

In the meantime, do a compression test (while you are swapping the plugs).

Your current setup is good for about 160rwkw on 13-14psi if your engine is healthy.

[FEMFTL]

doesn't seem right... I just had mine dyno'd and I got 138.8kw with a pretty stock car.. only have a FMIC , pod and 3inch exhaust, its running at 12psi. It originally ran 120kw.. on first run... second run pulled a higher figure..

[nytrda]

hey man that sounds bout rite. I dynoed at 150kw on 10 psi. and on 13.5 i got 170. My mods are FMIC, 3" zorst turbo back, 3" custom dump, bosch 040 fuel pump, bleed valve and power fc.

[Chris32]

I'd say the timing is out a little bit, thats where you would expect to gain power. 2 or 3 degrees out will mean big power losses

Looks like a bit of a miss at ~100, maybe swap or gap down your plugs

Other than that, as always, dyno's are best used for before and after, to see gains/losses

Should have dyno'd it before doing all your mods

What sort of condition is your clutch in? Not slipping is it?

[Lithius]

Brand new Extreme heavy duty clutch, old one shit itself not long after it was imported. Just found out my boost controller is in % not PSI... so i've been running 14% which explains the difference in boost between it and the dyno. I still think 120 is low for 11PSI though.

So i might try changing the sparkplugs, winding up the boost a bit more etc. What's involved in changing the timing and a compression test? Any idea of a rough price?

Edited November 21, 2005 by Lithius

[JaFF]

also, from the looks thats not in shootout mode. shootout mode gives you higher results from what i;ve read.

[Chris32]

Shootout mode will give you a result that 'should' be comparable to other dyno runs in shootout mode

Wouldnt waste your time with a comp. test, as long as its not blowing smoke

Timing is adjusted via the crank angle sensor, on the exhaust side of your engine (if looking at it front on)

The Crank angle sensor that round thing with 3 screws holding it to your timing belt cover

This needs to be adjusted with a timing light

To put a new set of plugs in and adjust the timing shouldn't cost more than $100, the plugs you can DIY if you are hand with a spanner

[Lithius]

I think it was done in shootout mode, it's hard to read 'cause of my shoddy camera work but down the bottom it says "Results plotted using dyno dynamics shootout mode"

Thanks for the advice guys, i will get some new plugs into her and look into getting the timing altered. will report back with any news.

It's not blowing any smoke.

Edited November 21, 2005 by Lithius

[BHDave]

If you've got the plugs out, do a comp test. It's worth the time to do it and you will know that your engine is relatively healthy. Checking the health of your engine is never a waste of time.

new copper plugs will cost under 30 bucks. Get the timing checked on the dyno and adjusted at the same time if it's out, if it costs an extra 20 bucks over a regular power run i'd be surprised. Same for playing with the boost.

[Lithius]

Hey I was just playing around with it then, trying to dial in 13-14PSI on my boost controller and checking it with both my boost gauge and the boost controllers boost metre, and it's now getting up about 13PSI, but is not holding it. Even tho i'm still revving higher the boost starts to drop (it dropped to about 8PSI before I stopped revving)

Does this indicate a boost leak or something else?

[R31Nismoid]

it indicates a stock turbo

[Lithius]

So even with an electronic boost controller a stock turbo can't hold 12+ PSI? And it's normal for it to drop so low?

[krush]

my r32 peaks at 12psi, but drops to 9psi by the time i get to 5000rpm. i was told theres a restriction in my intake path (most likely intercooler) but now that ive got a fmic, it still does it. i dont know what the problem is. but youre not alone!

although, my car made 145kw with cat back, pod and standard intercooler, so in my opinion something sounds a bit out for your car

s.

[R31Nismoid]

So even with an electronic boost controller a stock turbo can't hold 12+ PSI? And it's normal for it to drop so low?

yes