Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i've had this problem with my 32 for quiet some time now and it's beginning to shat me Basically, when cruising, all is fine and no sign of smoke through the rear vision mirror. However, if i put my foot down and ramp up to top end, once i begin to slow down, a massive cloud of white smoke follows It certainly smells like oil so im thinking it's burning oil. Why? I've replaced the turbo but no advancement..

I read up on here somewhere that it could be related to the PCV valve? I know for a fact that when driving hard, the dipstick pop's out and covers my engine bay with oil? I've taped it down so that's no drama atm..

Has anybody had similar problems or suggestions as to how i should go about rectfying it? As for the car, it's an rb20 R32 gtst with fmic, exhaust etc;

Thanks in advance,

nuR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/
Share on other sites

If youre popping out the dipstick you have a fair bit of blow by, which points to shagged rings.

Under boost the pcv valve closes anyway, i doubt it's your problem. The big question is, how much oil is in the intake pipes?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1730432
Share on other sites

just wanna say that i've fixed the problem and it nothing to do with a rebuild :) It was simply a hose which was being blocked off..As for the distick, the rubber seal wasn't sealing which was causing it to blow off..All is good now :D

Edited by nuR.spec
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1736749
Share on other sites

just wanna say that i've fixed the problem and it nothing to do with a rebuild :D It was simply a hose which was being blocked off..As for the distick, the rubber seal wasn't sealing which was causing it to blow off..All is good now :(

And that is exactly why you should seek professional advice from mechanics before taking further steps from information received here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1736889
Share on other sites

Maybe you should edit your previous post in this thread.........

Why?

I was merely stating that as much as it is hard to diagnose faults at the best of times when you have the car in front of you, it is even harder to diagnose faults with limited information and hundreds of possibilities with no method of testing from where I sit. That is why it is important, no matter what anybody says on these forums, that you take your car to a professional for accurate diagnosis.

I still resolve to say that there is an underlying problem still as the dipstick should not pop out under the circumstances that he has described.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1739009
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...