Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Disconnected the oxygen sensor from my car and it runs the same as with it connected. We hooked up a volt/ohm-meter and sure enough, it's giving crap readings ( 0 Volts on the line that's supposed to sit at around 0.5V according to my friend). Mate was really surprised that the engine didn't start running badly and / or searching for a comfortable idle engine speed when we disconnected it.

Long story short, we're gonna swap it out for a new one. Where in Canberra is a good place to buy an oxygen sensor? I asked at Autobarn and they needed to take my details to go and figure out what they can sell me. Doesn't exactly inspire confidence that they'll get the right model.

Also, how much should it be? Bare in mind I want a new one, I'm trying to eliminate the cause of a problem outright, so not after 2nd hand prices or "I've got one u can have..."

I don't mind if it's a non-performance brand eg Bosch or whatever, but I don't wanan pay through the nose just to have the word "Denso" on the side of something i'll never see.

Anyway, hope to swap it over this weekend if I've got the part in time. Thanks in advance for any help.

Go to Repco or similar and get one for an EF/EL falcon, it's the same piece and a fair bit cheaper. that's what i did when i got a new one in my car.

Do a search and you'll find a lot of help on this matter

Yeah, what Terminal said. I got one from Repco a while back for around about 80 bucks, part number was ROX207.

Easiest if you cut the wiring connectors off the old and new sensors, and wire the old connector up to the new sensor. The wire colours aren't the same, but not too hard to figure out, just do a search if you have troubles.

I used crimp on joiners to reconnect the wires as they don't take too well to soldering.

The sensor is also a right bastard to get out without the proper tool, as there isn't much room to swing a spanner, and normal sockets aren't deep enough to fit.

All up, about a 15 minute job if you have the right bits....

Good luck!

I did the same as JD R33, worked a treat, my old one was broken, and my new one might have picked up 40kms more to a tank, not that great but over all has probably paid itself off.. even if they are 'dead' your car wont run that bad, all it does when its broken is tell the ecu to run rich all the time... and most skylines run rich naturally anyway.

Goodluck

Dayne

Ah ok. I'm picking one up from Ed at Integ tomorrow morning. 110 bucks *shrug* Good enough. It's a generic one and will need hacking up like mentioned above. But this post did bring up the "special tool" side of it that I didn't realise, so I'll make sure my mate helping me change it has one or knows some tricks...

Yeah I'm hoping this solves my misfiring @ idle (worse when AC is on full tilt and/or I've been pushing the car a bit) and maybe give me some more kms per tank too... 260kms on $52 of BP ultimate last fill! :( And that wasn't really fangin' it either.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...