Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.. just looking for a few opinions at the moment.. i'm considering going on a powerhunt soon for my R32.. and i'm undecided on which direction to go in.. i've been hearing all about rb24's, and rb30's running rb26, or rb25 top ends.. it's all a bit confusing.. anyone got any hard data on what can be achieved on these combo's, and what kind of mods woud be necessary to get the go?? i'm not looking for huge figures atm, but want a package that i can get serious with later .(serious=350+rwkw) Any idea's ???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9571-power-hunting-on-my-r32/
Share on other sites

RB20 has 78 mm bore and 69.7 mm stroke for 1999 cc's

RB25 has 86 mm bore and 71 mm stroke for 2476 cc's

RB26 has 86 mm bore and 73.7 mm stroke for 2570 cc's

So the RB20 has a 8 mm smaller bore which means smaller valves

which is why it doesn't flow as well as RB25's or RB26's. You can not put the bigger RB25/6 valves in an RB20 head. Also the RB25 or RB26 head can not be used on a RB20 block, the bore (78 mm) and combustion chamber (86mm) mismatch would make this unworkable.

Hope that helps

Hi HaZe, 350 rwkw is around 560 bhp. That's way beyond the economic power output for a RB20DET. Based on previous experiences;

We buy complete, rebuildable RB30ET's (Commodore VL Turbo) without accessories (turbo, a/c, p/s, alternator) for less than $A600. A complete RB25DE costs around $A1,300. We sell the bottom end of the RB25DE for $A400 and the head off the RB30ET for $200. So the net cost is $1,300.

The RB30ET is 3 litres (86 mm bore X 86 mm stroke) This is the same bore as the RB25's so the head fits straight on, using the RB25 head bolts. For racing, we change the rods to forged and the pistons (87.5mm for 3,104 cc's) also to forged ones. We use the standard crank which we balance and check for straightness.

The extra 628 cc's (25%) capacity over the RB25 (2,476 cc's) gives more torque, both on and off boost, plus it makes good boost earlier. The trade off is that it does not rev as well as an RB26DETT, but the total cost with a single turbo is way less than half for the same amount of power. Plus, because it does not have to rev as hard, it doesn't wear out as quick.

If you can do the engine work (not machining of course) yourself, the cost per Kw is unbeatable. If you have to pay someone to do it all for you, then it is not as attractive. Buy a low K's RB25DET and stick it in would be my suggestion. Leave the internals stock & then bolt on the go faster bits progressively. %THis would give you 450 bhp.

Hope that helps

So if you want to go for the 560 bhp, this is the sort of stuff we use....

* the turbo (say a Garrett GT30408BB) would be $3,000

* wastegate (a 45 mm Progate) would be $800

* set of equal length exhaust pipes, wastegate pipe & dump $1,600

* Camshafts (Jun 264's) $1,300

* Headwork $800

* Conrods $900

* Forged pistons $1,800

* Greddy drag intercooler $1,800

* balance and assemble $1,000

Total $13K.

Now at that sort of power the R32 GTST gearbox ain't gunna last, a R33 GTST one would be OK. They're about $800. Plus it will need a good clutch, a twin plate OS Giken is what we use, they cost $3K.

Hope that fills in some more gaps.

Hey Sydneykid... it sounds like you have a workshop?? is that so?? if so would it be possible to source the block and head thru you?? Also.. is it worth going a twin turbo setup? i have someone who can design, engineer and build any custom intake/exhaust manifold work.. i would just have to get some specs and pics of something similar, then get him to fine tune the design.. anyway.. thanks for all the lovely info.. not going to bothe rdoing any more mods to my little rb20 now.. might as well save for the real thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...