Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this may have been covered before. But anyway. Some guys get 190rwkw out of stock intercooler. I have an R34 GTT unit and full turbo back exhaust and running 10psi with Powerfc.

Was wondering what people have found to be the max safe kw out of the R34 cooler and the intake temps at that level? Also Im hoping to get around 190rwkw at 10-11psi.

The next safe step to say 220-230rwkw would require turbo upgrade running 14-15psi. Would it be ok to run stock injectors and fuel pressure regaulator? And should the AFM be ok almost at its limit I guess? I have a nissan patrol clutch so I guess that should be ok. Could I also get awayt with the R34 cooler?

Any other things required for 220-230rwkw besides turbo upgrade?

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95722-mods-to-r33-gtst-and-r34-cooler/
Share on other sites

I had 189rwkw with my R34 stock cooler but that was auto and 12 psi.

I don't think it's very safe to go much above that, in fact I did blow my stock turbo there. Even with a bigger turbo you will need more cooling of the air so best to get a bigger cooler then.

People do say that the stock AFM is good for 220rwkw but it is only a rough rule of thumb. I have seen more. Plenty of people get there with stock injectors too although I think they usually need an adjustable fuel regulator and definitely a bigger fuel pump.

I met this guy with a 4door R33gtst auto running a GT2535 turbo at 10psi, and an Apexi SAFC making 220KW atw on the stock cooler. He has had this for the last 7 months and it appears to run fine. But I wouldn't reccomed it.

It can be done but it will cause damage in the long run.

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
    • It seems you'd like your Skyline to go to a great home, that can keep it as a beautiful museum piece.  I feel I can provide the perfect place for it, however, I'm not sure I can justify so much money for a Skyline that has only been crashed 3 times. Due to this and market prices, would you be against me buying it for $100.00, with $60 to be paid upfront, and the remaining $40 to be paid annually in equal payments?  
×
×
  • Create New...