232hp Is This Right For My Mods In Auto R32

[BHDave]

I'll dig out my old dyno sheet for you tonight, it doesn't have boost on it unfortunately, can't remember if it was running 12 or 14psi at the time and made 174 or so rwkw. It was all in by 4200 or so on mine.

It's also pretty obvious where the power starts on the graph as mine has the straight line followed by the big hump aswell.

[Miller the hoon]

Champ hyper drive are very good and you might get mor but it sounds to me like a safe tune

I have an auto r33 and found at lower boost i made more rwkw at190 @ 10 psi with a very healthy power band

james

[R31Nismoid]

hm.. 50degree IT... gonna be some reasonable correction there for sure so it'll be even a lower figure realistically speaking.

for a gcg hi-flo/17psi on rb20 now me thinking it should be a bit more when you think that 15psi on a rb25 nets you around the 250rwkw

[Cubes]

The RB20DET needs BOOST!

I went from the rb20det making 164rwkw on 15psi to the rb30det making 176rwkw on 9psi.

Engine size doesn't affect power, head and turbo airflow is what makes power.

Push 18psi in to it and it will crack your 200rwkw goal.

Speak to Chris32 what he thinks of his old Remapped ECU done by Martin Donnon compared to the PFC he now runs.

If I remember correctly he said the mid range power increased quite a bit with the pfc.

With regards to boost tailing off... This will aways occur with a manual boost controller to some extent, a cheapish option is to head down to your local turbo rebuilder and pick up a new wastegate actuator, down in Adelaide ATS sell an adjustable actuator for ~$120. You can select the preset also, from memory its something like 8psi, 12psi, 14psi, 17psi etc.

Where did u end up mounting the resistor pack?

The joys of trouble shooting a car that isn't quite performing the way you want it to.

Sorry I have to ask... Does it actually make any boost in first? Being an auto would have an advantage as it will spool a little earlier.

Edited November 22, 2005 by Cubes

[AntonRx7]

yeah does get boost in first, sometimes it shoots to like 1.7 bar for a millisecond which is kinda odd. Spins a bit at the end of first gear.

Installed resistor near the brake mastercylinder. Right in the corner of the engine bay. That should be ok yeah?

I can't just put 18psi in it can i? its only one of those 22$ boost controler maybe it would help with a better controler. I dono anywhere in perth that could sell actuators may have a look around.

Yeah Millar the Hoon they do a good job I have heard only good things and my car does run nice and is faster just thought i should be getting a bit more hp than it is.

[Cubes]

4doorsleeper runs a new gen GCG highflow on his RB25DET AUTO, that made 220rwkw on I 'think' 14psi.

So say... 20psi.. Might get you close to that.. Maybe depends if you run in to detonation problems. BUT then you need to start looking at engine reliability.

Resistor location will be fine, up against the master cyl is a little better than above the turbo dump

Hows fuel economy with the GTR injectors?

Edited November 22, 2005 by Cubes

[AntonRx7]

yeah fuel economy doesn't seems to bad but i haven't been driving it much only just got tune and been give it a bit of shit just to see wats its like a bit.

Ill need another tune if i want to run 20psi though won't I?

do you think maybe my dump pipe cause cause problems its just a open dump pipe no splitters.

Haha is yours near your exhaust? oh yeah wat you think about heat wraping cooler pipes cause they get prity hot. (the onethat goes past the fan.

[Cubes]

Yea It will need another tune for more boost.

[AntonRx7]

tune already cost me 800 and the guy recons it made no difference when he put 18psi into it so it isn't worth doing really i supose. It is a safe tune atm so probly best to keep it safe

[AntonRx7]

tune already cost me 800 and the guy recons it made no difference when he put 18psi into it so it isn't worth doing really i supose. It is a safe tune atm so probly best to keep it safe.

May just get a shift kit and leave it at that, not worth throwing an more money into the car since its auto, and any other upgrade turbo would just cost too much

[Miller the hoon]

Do you have a boost gauge + do you service your car much + how long have you had it + can you use cam gears to boost earler

Autos are choice 4 every day car and shift kit should make a difference

i wounder about the condition of your engine and gearbox

but remember hp is not everything you also need driverbility aswell

James

[Cubes]

Ahh well.. Thought about reselling the turbo?

Drop on a R34 (choice) or R33 Turbo and make approx the same power on less boost with less lag?

But it really depends if your figure is reading a little low or not as to whether the r34/r33 turbo would make the same power.

[AntonRx7]

yeah brought the car stock a few months ago probaly about 6 months or something. Service it often do all the work myself, yeah have a defi boostgauge. I dono why i would get r33 turbo or r33 doubt that would help. Hyperdrive dyno isn't one of those dyno's that read high so it would be an acurate reading.

I have changed the gearbox oil but have not yet changed the filter as gona do that when i do the shift kit. Still have not yet decided on shift kit or not yet.

[predator2]

Well I have similar modded r32 auto to yours anton, except no GTR injectors (have a nismo FPR to up the ante on the injectors a little).. but a highflow rb25 turbo (not gcg i dont think)

I'm only running 12psi at the moment and a bit of a self tune on the SAFC but it doesn't seem too much throw you in your seat.. and I estimate only around 140-50rwkw at the moment.

In about 2 weeks I am getting mine tuned.. but realistically I think i'll be lucky to get 180-190rwkw @ 16psi. The same turbo made 230rwkw @ 16psi on gtrgeoff's old rb25. I'll let you know how it goes, but I just don't think the RB25 highflow on rb20 is a great match.

Edited November 22, 2005 by predator2

[AntonRx7]

was that geoffs guy auto? keep me posted on what you get.

I also find that at the end of the revrange when it should change gear is sorts backfires and i tihnk its hitting the limiter and take a little while to change. Is this just the auto not being able to keep up? and wil a shif tkit help

[BHDave]

Here you go, same turbo, different rb20

running 12psi, i remember now because i still had the stock injectors in it at this stage which is why the a/f ratio starts climbing at 6k, i added a couple of extra psi after i put 550's in.

[AntonRx7]

cheers dave. Thats in a manual as well isn't it.

Do you think maybe something is wrong? you had a different actuator didn't oyu

[BHDave]

Yeah, manual gearbox.

I had an HKS adjustable, but i can't see that being the whole of the problem. It was holding a consistant 12psi right through to the end of the run.

This was on the stock ecu aswell, i got an emanage later on to run the 550's.

I can't see the gearbox causing a difference of 500rpm in response, though it would effect overall power. What sort of exhaust? what size/and type of cat/ and how old is the cat? Have you tried dropping the exhaust by any chance?

[AntonRx7]

the exhaust is 3inch no cat, no spliter in the dump pipe, and has 2 muffler although the rear muffler is pritty much useless as its bigger than 3inch so wouldn't be doing much. Maybe the dump pipe is a problem? or the other muffler in the middle of the car

[Miller the hoon]

The back fires are the fuel cut they are pops arnt they

that is y i turned my boost down to get FULL throtal and a much better power band

i have an eboost2 and i can use it very well

so i turned they boost down and the computer can handle the boost now

thus a good power band + a couple more hp